Simple Not Sophisticated

Where do you find inspiration? Occasionally I'll buy a fashion magazine but not often. I rarely visit fashion blogs - the kinds maintained by designers and magazines. I don't recognize designers, their style, or their lines. I don't keep track of this season's trends although I usually come across the information on someone else's blog. My inspiration comes from wanting to express my inner self outward, from day to day life, pattern catalogues, and what others are sewing, and from a desire to learn technique, answer questions, and explore ideas. Fashionwise, I'm quite simple and not at all sophisticated.

What works best for me is a flow of ideas. One thing leads to another and another and another. Cleaning up the studio yesterday took just a few minutes and lead to an exciting idea. I piled the jean muslins and assorted denim scraps together in a box with the intent of using them in a joint project. That was an invitation for my artist to brainstorm, which she did - layer the scraps, add decorative stitching near the edges, and leave bits to fray in the wash.

LOL - I'll use the scrap fabric to make a new fabric, wash it, fray it, and then cut out the garment from there. Most likely a jacket. It's an exciting idea for some time in the future. Although it's different, I'm sure my artist began pursuing this idea after reading Yoshimi's posting Jeans Upcycled. She did a fabulous job of the jeans. Ideas are always connected. They flow.




Here's an idea that's tickling my artist. The folds on the skirt of this dress are made from four U shapes laced through each other at center front and pleated along the sides. The main body of the dress extends right to the hem underneath the folds and shows through occasionally. It's gorgeous. I bought this magazine about a month ago when I wanted to see what I was drawn to. I remember looking through the inside. Funny that it took until yesterday to notice this detail on the cover - LOL.





As mentioned once before, when I hit the overwhelmed stage, it's easiest to retreat to the familiar. The most successful pair of jeans so far has been the McCall's 5592 wide leg trouser style. The only adjustments were for the stretch factor. I redrafted the pattern for a narrower leg and made a flat seat adjustment by removing a wedge about 1 1/2" below the crotch line as per this article on the Threads website. I took out a fairly large wedge based on the width of the wrinkles. Hopefully I haven't over fitted. It happens - VBG!

A week tomorrow, I'll be traveling to the Sandra Betzina and Ron Collins workshop. It starts on the Friday and runs for three days. My original intent was to sew jeans with Ron and to focus on absorbing creativity from Sandra. After three weeks fitting jeans, it seems silly to make another pair. I want to maintain my train of thought and I have no idea how fussy Ron and Sandra are about fit. I know that I am VERY fussy and that I don't want to be disappointed so...

... with Ron, I'm going to sew a jean skirt complete with fly front, fly protector, yoke, pockets, and belt loops. That way I will get all of the jean learning with none of the fitting issues through the crotch and behind. Sounds good to me. I'll draft the pattern from today's pair of jeans once I've finished sewing them and see how they fit through the waist and hip. I'm not expecting any issues.

... with Sandra - along with absorbing creativity - I'll work on fitting a blouse. Blouses are next on my learn list. Before I go, I plan to make a muslin of McCall's 6035 with a princess line and another one of ...



... Vogue 7903 with bust and waist darts. I'm not sure how much we'll get sewn however, having these two styles fitted will give me plenty of opportunities in the future.

This morning, I've been invited out for coffee to a friend's. I want to make some apple muffins to take with. After that, a few errands and then the next pair of jeans. It's Wednesday. Wendy should be coming over to sew tonight which gives me plenty of time to finish them with - I hope - great success or at least some below butt wrinkle learning.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - a clean studio, a fresh start

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Personal Growth - One of the women at knitting last night lent me the book Foods That Harm Foods That Heal published by Reader's Digest. Interesting! Quickly flipping through it I've learned that coffee reduces a women's fertility rate and that women with celiac's disease (gluten allergy) often fail to menstruate and may have problems getting pregnant. Wish I'd know that twenty-five years ago. It might have saved a lot of heartache. It's interesting to connect the dots of past and present issues. I'm intrigued by what it might mean to improved health as I age - brilliantly - I hope. Now to look up menopause - VBG.

Carolyn (cmarie12) wrote - Can I just say that I am in the midst of menopause and fight every day to hold onto myself and to love my evolving body... although right now I'm really missing my slim ankles - LOL! I sure wish there was a class on this but I"m glad that I have a wonderful mother who I'm modeling my journey after!

Thanks for the encouragement Carolyn. How fabulous that you have such a great role model. Please feel free to pass on any words of wisdom. I'll take all I can get.

Over Promise Under Deliver

The sizing on the skirt is perfect. I wore it around the studio for a few hours and it didn't bag out although it might be a bit too tight. LOL - too tight is not perfect! I'll have to decide.

The front kept making a slight fold across the thighs. The same thing happens with the RTW version and is probably yet, still, another glitch of stretch fabric. Even if I let the skirt out, it could still happen. My love-hate relationship with stretch fabric continues. There's a lot to be said for knit tops and woven bottoms. Last night, I was tempted to abandon the whole stretch jean journey only I've come too far to give up now.

Never, never, never make big promises about something like the world's most amazing jeans unless you want to over promise under deliver because, for sure, something will happen to derail your plans - like forgetting to check the stretch factor and cutting them out of a less stretchy fabric. I could get them on - barely - and guess what, there were still wrinkles under the butt. SO ANNOYING.

I pulled every book about alterations off the shelf, read through them again and again, and then pinned a vertical tuck on my "muslin" as per Pants For Real People. That seemed to help only I've been there, done that, before. Other things have seemed to help too. We'll see on the next version - only not today - today is a doctor's appointment, knitting, lunch with a friend, more knitting, AND...




... before anything else... clutter clearing. Piles on the floor mean I'm frazzled. After comparing crotch curves, hip width, leg length, and what does this alteration actually alter along with a gazillion other things, there's paper everywhere. I'm at the can't remember what I did and why I did it stage. Envelope stuffing coming up.

Did you watch Oprah yesterday? Her guest was Raquel Welch who is 69 almost 70 as she puts it and looks quite amazing. Her looks didn't interest me. That's packaging. Her comments did especially the ones about losing herself during menopause and feeling like she emerged a new and stronger person on the other side. She said menopause levelled her. Hmm... yes... I can so relate.

There were also Words of Wisdom and Beauty At Any Age segments with comments on aging brilliantly made by women of varying ages. Sal's posting yesterday was along the same lines. In Reader Request: Evolution, twelve women in their 20's to 50's share their style, their feelings around style and body image, and how they're evolving or changing as they age. Again, there were a couple comments about losing themselves in child raising or menopause and re-emerging. Those are encouraging. I could best relate to the women nearest my age. Woman to woman advice. So valuable.

Have a great day - Myrna

Grateful - Knowing that once order and cleanliness are restored, the frazzled feelings will disappear and creative energy reappear. YES YES.

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Personal Growth - If you play it safe in life, you've decided that you don't want to grow anymore. - Shirley Hufstedler, lawyer. That's the risk you take if you change; that people you've been involved with won't like the new you. But other people who do will come along. - Lisa Alther, novelist.

When we're dealing with something, it's nice to know we're not alone. Reading and hearing words from other women that click with how I'm feeling is both encouraging and supportive even though they have no idea that our lives touched.

It seems to be taking me forever to get my feet back on solid ground. Menopause mixed up with too many things coming at me from too many directions for too many years has made it difficult BUT... I see bits and pieces of the light. I'm in the process of re-emerging or perhaps I'm emerging. As I age, I'm both more patient and more honest and I'm even more intrigued than I've been before with individuality, learning, uniqueness, and eccentricity. ME - not a carbon copy.

My mind swirls with questions - What do I want to learn? How will I stretch my brain? What am I willing to do now - like exercise - that I don't want to do in order that I can have something later that I do want - like flexibility? Where am I being authentic? Where am I NOT being authentic? Am I hiding? Is change possible (or necessary) now? If not, when?

Pin Pricked Pattern

Did you notice my obsessive compulsive tendencies? That I'm somewhat tenacious? I get a question in my mind and it becomes an all consuming passion to answer. This weekend, it's been more about stretch jeans. I am SO CLOSE.

After thinking that it wouldn't work for me, I gave Heather's suggestion for a fish eye dart a lot more thought along with Kris' and Katherine's (on Stitcher's Guild) suggestions for a protruding calves adjustment. The way I see it, a fish eye dart is similar to a sway back adjustment under the butt and a protruding calves adjustment is like a FBA adding length and width where needed.

Yesterday, I spent a few hours sitting around in the third adaptation of the jeans. They became a muslin. I pinned, basted, and tucked this and that to test alterations while at the same time watching to see how much the fabric stretched out over the afternoon. Wow - a LOT! I won't bore you with more in process pictures. Suffice to say that some pretty darn amazing - the best so far - jeans are coming soon.

On Saturday, I wore the turquoise print jeans and by the end of the day, the crotch was an inch lower with all over major bagging. They became so exceedingly unflattering that I can't wear them. It's just not pretty. I'd have altered them except that raising the waist would also have raised the hem creating flood pants. The pattern was surprisingly short, which is not a problem I typically have.




I know that I said I wouldn't go to Fabricland. I did because I LOVE THAT FABRIC and it was 70% off and almost all gone. I bought enough for another pair of pants (for under ten bucks) and refashioned the first pair into a skirt - a sort of copy of the one above.




I created a pin pricked pattern by laying table paper on the ironing board and pinning through the skirt. Using the window as a light table, connecting the dots produced the rough drawing below. This is the finished size with no hems or seam allowances.




The rough drawing was fine tuned into the actual pattern adding curves and darts as needed. The back was split into two panels so it could be cut out of a pant leg.




Once the pattern lines were drafted, I made a clean copy and added the seam allowances and hems. In the image below, the green lines show the seam lines and the pink the added 5/8" seam allowances.




This is a fabulous project. It's curious and challenging because it's a self-drafted copy of a RTW piece that I like, it refashions an existing garment from something useless into something wearable, and it allows me to explore a new technique while contributing to my learning around stretch fabrics. YES YES.

My primary goal was to copy the comfort waist from the Reitman's skirt. The width along the top of the waistband appeared to be the same as at the bottom with the transparent elastic snugging it into shape. Below, I've slashed and spread the top of the pin pricked pattern for the back waist to equal the bottom.




Here you can see the waistband attached to the body of the skirt. The body fits snug and the top of the waist is loose on Millicent. I want to wear the skirt for a couple hours and see how much it stretches before I finish the side seams, hems, and waistband. The pattern is based on the size that Reitman's (the store selling the skirt) suggests I buy. The width and the waist treatment are both transferable information to stretch jeans.




The side front and side back pieces were cut from the bottom of each pant leg. The center back piece was shortened and cut from the top of one pant leg. Remnants were used to make the flounces for the bottom back. One could have been cut from the other pant leg and if I'd been short on fabric that would have worked as long as the seam through the center (side seam on the pants) was pressed open for less bulk. Luckily, I had enough remnants for the flounces and the waistband pieces.




I'll wear the skirt this morning while I work on the pattern adjustments for the jeans and finish it once I see how much the fabric stretches. Over the last couple weeks, I've learned a lot about sewing stretch fabrics and stretch jeans. The learning will be somewhat different for non-stretch ones - a whole new journey.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - getting the garden cleaned up yesterday. Now it's off my mind and looking much better.

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Personal Growth - Good friends, take to heart what I'm telling you; collect my counsels and guard them with your life. Tune your ears to the world of Wisdom; set your heart on a life of Understanding. That's right -- if you make Insight your priority, and won't take no for an answer, searching for it like a prospector for gold, like an adventurer on a treasure hunt, believe me, before you know it Fear-of-God will be yours; you'll have come upon the Knowledge of God. And here's why; God gives out Wisdom free, is plainspoken in Knowledge and Understanding. He's a rich mine of Common Sense for those who live well, a personal bodyguard to the candid and sincere, he keep his eye on all who live honestly, and pays special attention to his loyally committed ones. - Proverbs 2

Being a candid person means frequently dealing with shoot the messenger syndrom. Having a personal body guard is a comforting thought. I've often considered that praying for wisdom is along similar lines to praying for patience. The lessons will come. Sometimes, I'd rather duck. I don't want to find the silver lining in whatever situation I'm in. I'd rather whine. Luckily, not always. Life is forever full of lessons. As much as I am able, I want to learn and to gather wisdom and understanding. A passion, interests, and compelling questions all make life richer.

Fish Eye Dart

I - Love - These - Jeans !!!

The first thing I did yesterday was alter the McCall's 5592 jeans by taking in an additional 5/8" along each side - another 2 1/2" in total. They fit really snug and smooth with a few ripples across the front only they're made of stretch denim. A half hour of wear and those ripples will let off and the fit will be fine. MUCH better than the first time around. I'm glad I took the time to alter them. I've made a note on the pattern to narrow each piece by 1" and use standard seam allowances next time.

I - LOVE - THESE - JEANS. Trouser style, especially in dark denim, is the most flattering of any jean style on me. I'm changing my mind. What was I thinking? A girl with my figure can't have enough of these. They make me look good and feel fabulous. Sold. I can hardly wait to sew another pair and focus in on the details more now that I've worked out the seams and the sizing.




Here's a detail of the back. If you have any ideas for the wrinkles, I'd appreciate hearing them. They were less obvious before the picture. In fact, until my husband took the picture, I thought they were nonexistent - LOL. It almost looks as if I need more length at the side - a longer hip depth to bring that line downward? Like I said - they're not perfect but I love them.




Yesterday was a fabulous day. I spent it at home, alone, in the studio. Along with the McCall's jeans, I also finished the KwikSew 3625 ones. The side seam allowance was again 1 5/8" which makes me wonder if one inch narrower is a good approximation for stretch fabrics. Since stretch varies so much that might be my general rule while realizing that I'll still need to baste seams and fit each pair individually. I can live with that.




In the picture above, the jeans haven't stretched out at all so they're looking tight. I had just put them on before the picture. It seems as if the front crotch length is a bit too long. Below, the back has similar wrinkles to the McCall's jeans. Some of these are caused by my calves. When I bend them away from the fabric (which is really hard to do) the wrinkles disappear - or at least my husband says they do. You can see that the wrinkles point right to the calves.

Does anyone else have protruding calves? What adjustments do you make for them? The adjustment that I've read about so far is to make the back slightly wider than the front. Slightly doesn't seem to do it. Is there a way to measure how much extra width is necessary? Perhaps by slashing a muslin.




The cut of the KwinSew jeans is more tapered. While not a skinny cut, they're still not as flattering as the trouser style because of the the way the back cups in under the butt. My behind looks flatter and my protruding calves bigger - creating those wrinkles - but not as many wrinkles as RTW. Again, they're not perfect but I like them. I think the fabric is fun. And now I have two pairs of jeans to wear. Progress. Good thing. I was feeling pretty whiny yesterday.

When I compare them, the waist on the KwikSew jeans is 2" wider than the waist on the McCall's ones. While the McCall's are a bit snug, I know that's going to relax and it feels like the waistband is doing a better job of holding my pants up where they belong. I've been wondering about that - if with my figure a waistband is a better idea than a contoured top. My hips are significantly wider than my waist. Perhaps that's a factor. Does anyone else feel that way? Thoughts?

In her blog posting yesterday, Erica B. asked What Do You Wear Daily? She went on to say that she wears what she sews and that what we see on her blog is what she's wearing. That would be GORGEOUS garments that are a lot more dressy than anything I wear. Her question intrigued me. I thought about it a lot yesterday.

It's amazingly difficult to shift myself out of this jeans and black t-shirt rut that I've been in for so long. It's partly lack of wardrobe and partly my comfort zone. I'm working on taking it - with it being how I dress - up a notch and then shifting it over. Something along the lines of jeans and t-shirts, dressy jeans with dressy t-shirts and blouses, jean skirts with t-shirts, dressy t-shirts, and blouses, flirty summer skirts with t-shirts, dressy t-shirts, and blouses, and a few dresses. I'm not sure I'll ever get to what Erica's wearing but I'm certainly inspired.

One of the comments on the posting had to do with dressing differently when visiting Canada from Australia. That made me laugh. I'm sure it's not the entire country. Canada is a big place with stylish cities like Vancouver, Toronto, and Montreal however, I get what the commenter meant. Where I live, pants are more common than skirts or dresses and jeans are more common than any other kind of pant. Dress pants are mostly worn in dress-up offices. That makes breaking out of my rut along the lines of walking to a completely different drummer. Dressed up for most of my friends is dressy jeans with a blouse and flats or heels. Skirts are more common in the summer but really dressed up rarely happens and causes a lot of comment.

This morning, I'm cleaning house. This afternoon, I'm going by the gallery to pick up my pieces. The exhibit is over. Two pieces sold. Seven are coming back home. I plan to wear one pair of jeans and take the other with me so that while I'm downtown I can drop into the sewing machine shop and get the owner's feedback on fit and future alterations. Charlene is amazingly talented and - unfortunately - too busy with her shop to get together regularly although I'm welcome to drop by any time. I appreciate that. I wonder what her advice on protruding calves will be. Saturday - more sewing.

Have a great weekend - Myrna

Grateful - TWO pairs of jeans, a great tax rebate, paying off a loan, a (pending) clean house and a free weekend to sew. Lucky me. YES YES!

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Personal Growth - What all these people have in common is that they have mastered the underlying skills of their creative domain, and built their creativity on the solid foundation of those skills. Skill gives you the wherewithal to execute whatever occurs to you. Without it, you are just a font of unfulfilled ideas. Skill is how you close the gap between what you can see in your mind's eye and what you can produce; the more skill you have, the more sophisticated and accomplished your ideas can be. Picasso once said, while admiring an exhibition of children's art, "When I was their age I could draw like Raphael, but it has taken me a whole lifetime to learn to draw like them. You're only kidding yourself if you put creativity before craft. Craft is where our best efforts begin. You should never worry that rote exercises aimed at developing skills will suffocate creativity. At the same time, it's important to recognize that demonstrating great technique is not the same as being creative. - page 163 of The Creative Habit by Twyla Tharpe

Which is why I'm okay with making making a garment over and over. Each time I learn, perfect, and smooth the path to creativity. Once my hands can move through the motions mindlessly, my mind will bubble with ideas. Already, it begins.

Droopy And Dragged Down

Instead of sewing jeans yesterday, I tried on a few different pairs at Reitman's. What's with the vanity sizing? It's getting ridiculous. The sales clerk tried to convince me to go down two sizes to accommodate the stretch factor. Two sizes smaller is an unbelievable number. While I'm not huge, I'm not teeny tiny either.

Back in 1987, I bought a size seven, denim skirt for Mother's Day. I weighed 118 pounds and had just had my first child. The jeans I'm wearing right now are a (stretch) size seven. I sew a size sixteen pant pattern. I weigh significantly more than 118. So much so that vanity sizing is not flattering; it's annoying. Based on Reitman's sizing with the stretch jeans, if I were to lose another ten pounds, I'd be in their smallest size range. That makes absolutely no sense to me. There are lots of women much smaller than me. What are they wearing?

Sizing aside, shopping is always a gamble. Some seasons, there is so much selection and all of it seems to fit me. Other seasons, nothing at all fits. I'm somewhat envious of Mardel's recent shopping experience. It sounds like she walked in and walked out with a set of basics. That's so wonderful when it happens and it has - for me too - in the past - just not this year.

My plan at Reitman's was to buy a few pairs of pants to augment sewing only the boot-cut is too skinny legged - I look like a ball on a stick - and the straight-cut is absolutely not flattering. They cup my butt, stick out with my protruding calves, and wrinkle in-between. AND - even worse - a (stretch) size small enough around my hips horizontally is too small through the crotch length vertically. As the sizes get smaller, everything gets smaller. That doesn't work. The front isn't too bad but the back feels droopy and dragged down. I did buy one pair and wore them around the house for half an hour hopeful that they'd stretch out enough. Not. I'll return them. This season... skirts and t-shirts, I can buy; blouses and jeans, I can't.

On Monday, I tried on my only other pair of jeans besides these ones I'm wearing. I knew they were a bit big. By mid morning, I needed a belt except that pulled them up too much. They felt short in shoes. By evening, even the belt wasn't doing the trick. The crotch was sagging part way to my knees. SO... it's time to get to some serious sewing. My wardrobe situation has reached a drastic level. In two weeks, I'm leaving for the Sandra Betzina/Ron Collins workshop. I'll need at least five outfits to get me through.

Yesterday was my first day home alone after seventeen consecutive somebody in the house days. While it was wonderful to have the kids here, I am such a creature of habit and routine that I'm also thankful for the return to normal. I'd anticipated spending the day alone in the studio only I had an invitation to coffee and since I was mostly a zombie post cold and kids, it was far more interesting to chat with my friend than veg in my studio. I did that later.

After coffee and shopping, I curled up in the chair by the window and spent the afternoon either reading a book or project planning in my head - all afternoon - until I cooked dinner - and then... more of the same all evening which means that I have nothing to report except for today's ambitions. I plan to take in the side seam on the wide legged trouser jeans and to finish up the printed turquoise ones. While they're both quite distinctive, finishing them will give me something more to wear.




All is not lost. I haven't been completely uncreative in a hands on way. Tuesday night at knitting I finished up the fuchsia scarf. It's made from a yarn called Dream and knit with a 2 x 2 rib pattern. It's thick, very warm, and completely out of season. Green shoots are poking up through the garden and I'll need to get out there this weekend. It just took me that long to knit it - LOL - with all the sewing I've been doing. With the scarf finished, I've returned to the green sweater. There are two fronts left to knit. If - LOL - that takes just as long, it'll be perfect. We'll be cruising into fall instead of spring. Hopefully not.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - I'm thankful for silver linings. I'm frustrated with not being able to buy the style of jeans I want. It'd be so much easier. Thankfully, I have the ability to sew them. I'm frustrated with my changing size. I feel like I never get caught up and finish putting together a basic wardrobe. I'm thankful that sewing those garments keeps me busy and creative and is far less expensive than buying them.

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Personal Growth - These mistakes - relying too much on others, waiting for the perfect setup, overthinking structure, feeling obligated to finish what you've started, and working with the wrong materials - are deadly. Any one of them will undermine your best efforts. - page 128 of The Creative Habit by Twyla Tharpe

At different points, I have made all of these mistakes. They truly are deadly. I can be my own worst enemy. In particular, I need to stop overthinking and just do. Start and it will come together. Wait and it never will.

The Difference Is In The Details

Coincidentally, Peter's topic yesterday on Male Pattern Boldness was Too Many Patterns. In the posting, he talks about the lack of selection, how men's patterns are pretty much all the same, and how they dull they are. When I asked Peter what he was looking for, he said I do see cute guys jackets from time to time and wish I could buy the pattern. But honestly, I think the problem -- or rather the reality -- is that men's clothes are very standard: shirts and pants. That's basically it. So you have to find unusual fabrics and color combinations.

So... the difference is in the details. This is a topic I think about often because I like clean lines and simple designs which means the potential for my garments to look-a-like and be peat and re-peat versions of each other is VERY high. Here's what I mean.




Butterick 4659 above is a princess seamed blouse just like McCall's 6035 below. I bought one pattern a few years ago and one this weekend. There's relatively little difference between them other than the collar which is simple, easily drafted, or transferable from another pattern already in stash.




Buying the pattern for the collar pieces - or even the instructions - might be preferable to drafting however - assuming that the one pattern is already "perfectly" fitted - is buying a new pattern and starting from scratch to fit it really truly much easier than transferring design lines? What about these skirts?




Vogue 7937 above and Butterick 4859 below are again quite similar patterns. While the seam lines through the back are shaped differently, the look is similar. It's that femininity and flirtiness that I was buying and since I hadn't yet sewn one pattern, why did I buy the second one?

At their very basic, a pencil skirt is a pencil skirt is a pencil skirt - a darted blouse is a darted blouse is a darted blouse - jeans are jeans are jeans. If so, why do I buy so many patterns? Because it's true and it's not true.

Part of the reason is because of the subtle differences between patterns. The details. Partly, it's seduction. I've seen the pattern sewn and looking beautiful on someone else and hope that will rub off on me too. Partly, it's because of several good - or not good - reviews. I want to up my success ratio and lower my frustration levels. Only... why do I sew? Ultimately, it's that answer that I need to keep in mind. Without it, it doesn't matter how many patterns or how much fabric I buy, in the end, I won't be happy.

Last summer, a friend and I were driving to a fabric store about an hour and a half away which gave us plenty of time to talk about sewing and what we were looking for on the way. At forty-seven, we've both been sewing for over thirty years. In thirty years, you do a lot of peat and re-peating and you come to a lot of conclusions about which styles you gravitate toward and why and you've - to quite a degree - defined your sense of style and preferences. Within that description, how do you stay fresh, edgy, stylish, and up-to-date? Our conclusion was - it's in the details. The details are a HUGE part of what makes me happy.




As Peter said, so you have to find unusual fabrics and color combinations. My reaction is yes and no - at least for me. For me, that's not enough. It has to be more than that. New Look 6735 above is my tried & tested t-shirt pattern. In the past few months, I've sewn it six times, each time perfecting the fit slightly more. Each time, I've used a different fabric. I liked the fabrics but they didn't significantly alter the delight of sewing because each time it's basically the sames steps. They've become repetitive, and dare I say boring, even though there is a certain satisfaction in the smooth flow of the process. I enjoy that confidence of motion.

However, it's at that point - when my hands are moving with ease through the repetitious stages - that my brain can begin to bubble with creativity. I used to think it was just creativity that I enjoyed only I've come to realize that I also like a challenge. I start out wanting to fit the garment well and then to perfect the fit and then when it fits extraordinarily well, it's at that point that the pattern becomes a building block - a blank canvas. The basic t-shirt pattern above can (and did) become this one one below and...




... this one and...

... and this one too! And each presents both technical and creative challenges. (Both are available from Anthropolgie if you want to look them up.)




Peter is right. Men's wear includes pants, shirts, jackets, and evening wear. Women's wear includes pants, shirts, skirts, dresses, jackets, and evening wear. We have more categories. We have more pattern selection. Is this abundance a blessing or a curse? I think it depends on your perspective and your goals for sewing.

As a writer, I have faced the blank page many times. As an artist, I've filled in a lot of blank canvasses. Knowing myself, and looking at what has provided the most satisfaction both in my art career and with fashion sewing these last six months after my art career, I can see that there are two primary tasks before me. The first is to perfect the fit of my blank canvasses - a blouse, a t-shirt, trousers, jeans, a skirt, and a dress - and the second is to fill those canvasses with numerous expressions of self. To do that...




... I can go beyond purchased fabrics. The techniques of my art career - dyeing, overdyeing, re-fashioning, stamping, thread work, fabric manipulation, and so on - are as applicable to garment sewing as they are to textile art. And they're fun. (Actually - that's a third task - learning and perfecting techniques.) AND...

... I can go beyond the patterns. The challenge of drafting that tucked and buttoned t-shirt was just as satisfying as the challenge of creating and stitching the ribbed collar on this re-fashioned sweater and both were as satisfying as filling blank canvasses and empty pages.




This is not a new awareness. All of us tend to circle back through the same ideas over and over and when we do, there are new lessons to be learned or old ones to be confirmed. I love to sew. I've loved it since I was twelve years old. Thirty-five years later, the possibilities are still endless HOWEVER...




... for me to be completely happy, I also need to be challenged technically or creatively or both. My focus is not on accumulating numerous patterns or a large fabric stash but to accumulate the skills, questions to explore, and the bubbling creativity to take those "blank canvasses" in endless and satisfying directions like turning that unflattering skirt above into this much more interesting blouse. Pattern Overload happens when I'm going in the wrong direction - when I'm accumulating stuff more than I'm accumulating ideas and challenges. That's a good awareness and so - today - I'm back to perfecting the fit of my jeans. YES YES! Once accomplished, another blank canvas.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - I'm well enough to sew again. I can think straight. Good.

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Personal Growth - Instead of thinking about where you are, think about where you want to be. It takes twenty years of hard work to become an overnight success. - Diana Rankin, writer

Along with loving a technical or creative challenge, I'm incredibly goal oriented. This posting has enunciated the value of and the potential of fitting those yawn-yawn boring blank canvass patterns. Obviously new t & t patterns will emerge with time. I can't imagine being confined to the same six or seven patterns forever. I like change to much. However, having those core patterns chosen, fitted, and perfected will allow me to explore creativity in a way that satisfies me immensely. The pull to fit ourselves into a different way of being, one that's not our own, is so strong and yet we are happiest pushing the boundaries of our own box.

Pattern Overload

Thanks for the congratulations and well wishes yesterday. I appreciate them. Jessica and I had a great time together. We didn't get to have Indian food. The restaurant was closed which was quite disappointing. We went somewhere else and will try again next time. Along with lunch, we did some shopping including at the paint store to chose colors for her home. I'll be going at the end of June to paint it.

I got a giggle when we looked through my color tool and she pulled out a pink, a green, and a blue. Hmm... guess whose mother has those same three personal neutrals. Her pink is more violet and her green more olive but that blue - navy just like mine. Too fun. It's such a delight to watch your children grow up and emerge and come into themselves and it's fun to see bits and pieces of yourself. After all, raising children is a LOT of wonder and work. She leaves this afternoon. I'll miss her.

Even though I was sniffy, drippy, miserable over the weekend, I dragged myself to the Fabricland Birthday Bash. If they'd extended the sale, I wouldn't have endangered their health however, as the sale couldn't wait for my cold, I went anyway and avoided breathing on people as much as possible.




I picked up three pieces of denim and four knits. That's three pairs of jeans, at least one skirt, and four or more t-shirts. Everything was 50% off which is a good deal BUT ONLY if I actually sew them. As stash, they're lovely to look . What I need are actual clothes to wear. I've been thinking about that a lot lately because...




... I also picked up these patterns even though I just got a shipment from the BMV club. I have a LOT of patterns. Some of you are to blame. I read your blog. You sew an amazing outfit. I love it. I want it. I buy the pattern. It's good and it's not good because...




... as you might remember, I've been totalling my studio expenditures each month and really - truly - this is getting a bit ridiculous. For the amount I've spent, I should have an amazing wardrobe. Instead, I have an amazing stash of fabrics and patterns. Not that I haven't been doing some sewing. I have. Just not enough.

With the patterns especially, my stash significantly exceeds my ability to sew them up. It's impossible. It's all too much. I'm on pattern overload. At moments like this, I can grasp so completely the financial and creative value of a T & T. One of my friends says that all you need are a few good patterns and from there, you can do anything. I see what she means. Hmm...

So... yet... still... again... a moratorium on spending about sewing and a focus on actual sewing. Until the 8th when I leave for the Sandra Betzina/Ron Collins workshop, unless it's on the supply list or absolutely essential to finishing a project, it's on the no buy list. At the workshop, I'll do some careful thinking through before purchasing because when I get to pattern and stash overload, guilt is not far behind and I'm not willing to go there. Sewing is about fun, fashion, fit, and flatter and NOT guilt. Breath in - breath out - I can do this. I'll just not go to Fabricland she says... like an addict on withdrawal.

Have a great day - Myrna

Grateful - Excel accountability

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Personal Growth - No person is your friend who demands your silence, or denies your right to grow. - Alice Walker, author - Take control of your destiny. Believe in yourself. Ignore those who try to discourage you. Avoid negative sources, people, places, things and habits. Don't give up and don't give in. - Wanda Carter, writer.

I can chose to make the most of my life... or not. A choice ignored or procrastinated is still a choice made. I want to chose proactively and live with energy and enthusiasm, brilliance and creativity. Such hard work. So worth it.

A Year Ago

A year ago - almost today - after a twenty year career as an author and instructor in quilt making, I made the decision to retire. It took a long time and was a difficult decision to make and now, a year later, I can truthfully say that I don't regret it at all. It was time.

I believe in celebration and when you work for yourself by yourself, it's not likely that anyone is going to throw you a retirement party - which meant organizing my own. It was important to me to recognize my career. A lot of blood, sweat, and tears went into the failures and the successes of those years. Planning my own party made my friends laugh. They said it was "so Myrna" and that they were glad I'd marked the occasion because while they wouldn't have thought of it, now that I had, they wanted to come. Yes and too fun.




We went to a local tea house where they treated me to lunch, presents, and wonderful comments about my career, my character, and our friendship. It was touchy, feely, fabulous. Instead of a gold watch, I bought myself a very expensive set of knitting needles and some equally expensive linen yarn.

At the time, my intention was to continue with a career as a textile artist. That didn't happen. By September 2009 when I'd finished the nine pieces for an upcoming exhibit, it was obvious that the economy could not - and was not likely to be able to any time soon - support such a specialized interest. That was even more apparent in January 2010 when I delivered the pieces to the gallery for the exhibit. While my art was available and admired, the market and the money weren't there.

If you've read Malcolm Gladwell's book The Outliers, you'll understand the concept of ten thousand hours. I'd put in my time. I'd developed the skills and abilities. I'd secured exposure in quite a few high end galleries. I was on the cusp. I'd become a skilled and somewhat recognized artist and even so - and even though I thoroughly enjoy creating textile art - the economy was beyond my control. The recession meant it was time to get real. This wasn't going to be my moment. The stars were not aligning. As a business, this wouldn't work.

A business that makes money is a success. A business that does not make money is not a success. The question was never am I good artist - I am. The question was always is this a sustainable business - NO. Realizing that, I decided to completely close the business and - LOL - bought myself a dress form to celebrate the decision.

Although I've had several sales in the last year from opportunities that were already in the works when I made my decision, they have not been enough to sustain the cost of producing the art pieces never mind earning a living of any kind - not even part time. If more had sold, I would have had to question my decision. As it is, this is a relief.

Over the next few months, I'll be picking up art pieces from four different galleries. When all the pieces are back home, there will be almost twenty five sitting - unsold - in my studio. While I don't quite know what to do with these pieces, I am also not revisiting the question. It's settled. All that remains to discover is what's next.

A year later, I still don't know the answer to that question but I do know that I am enjoying the return to sewing fashions IMMENSELY. This is something I've been wanting to get back to for a long time. Now is the time and while there have been some frustrating moments, there have also been moments of incredible creativity. There is endless potential in clothing as an expression of self just as there was in textile art. YES YES. I can hardly wait to explore that more. I feel as if I've barely begun to scratch the surface.

But not today. Today, I'm spending with my daughter. I'm glad that she had other things to do these last few days since I've been miserable company. BUT... today is MY day. YES YES! I'm looking forward to our time together although I've been quite sick all weekend. I would of course get an amazing cold on the weekend when I least want it - VBG - oh well. What I don't want is to be tired today. Hopefully all goes well. I missed the baby shower but with my sniffly nose, there would have been no baby snuggles and with my allergies, no yummy nibbles so it's just as well. I'll make up for it at lunch. We're going for Indian food, something new for Jessica, something yummy for me. Have a great day.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - a day with my daughter

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Personal Growth - There's a paradox in the notion that creativity should be a habit. We think of creativity as a way of keeping everything fresh and new, while habit implies routine and repetition. That paradox intrigues me because it occupies the place where creativity and skill rub up against each other. It takes skill to bring something you've imagined into the world: to use words to create believable lives, to select the colors and textures of paint to represent a haystack at sunset, to combine ingredients to make a flavorful dish. No one is born with that skill. It is developed through exercise, through repetition, through a blending of learning and reflection that is both painstaking and rewarding. Even Mozart, with all his innate gifts, his passion for music, and his father's devoted tutelage, needed to get twenty-four youthful symphonies under his belt before he composed something enduring with number twenty-five. If art is the bridge between what you see in your mind and what the world sees, then skill is how you build that bridge. - page 9, The Creative Habit by Twyla Tharpe

How many times have you heard someone say I wish I could sew (or whatever) like you. Really? Because if they really wanted to they would. We learn to do the work by doing the work and as we do it over and over again our hands begin to move with ease as our minds bubble with creativity.

Learning any skill (attaining any goal) takes an investment of time, money, and energy as well as a determined desire to do what it really takes. What it takes is way more than wishing. It's not easy. There is no magic bullet. I know this just as I know that in some areas of my life I'm still wishing. Life's like that. We wish and eventually, if we truly wish, we do.

And Today...

Once I had the jeans basted together yesterday morning, I wore them around the house for a couple of hours while I made a pot of soup, baked some scones, and read a book. Plenty of sitting and standing, walking and twisting. It did the trick.

The fabric stretched and the jeans need to be taken in a further 1" each side for a total of 4". The seam allowance at the sides will be 1 5/8" which is exactly what the seam allowance on the blue jeans will be when I take them in again. Not that two pairs of jeans a theory makes however... it looks like the stretch factor means making each piece roughly an 1" narrower.

1" seam allowances through the crotch are a good idea. With the increased stretch factor of this fabric, I ended up raising the crotch seam 3/8" at the base. With a 5/8" seam allowance, that's okay but if I had needed to come up much further, I wouldn't have had the fabric. Better safe than sorry.

I'd hoped to finish the jeans last night and have a picture for today only by the time I got home from my haircut - which involves a visit with my friend as well - I was feeling quite sick AND TODAY... I have a cold. It was a rough night. Hopefully that was the worst of it. I really want to enjoy the visit with my daughter. She arrives this morning and stays until Tuesday afternoon.

On Sunday, we're supposed to go to a baby shower. Of course I won't go if I'm all sniffly only I'll miss out on new baby snuggles. Sara - the daughter of Jessica's friend - will be barely two weeks old. New babies are so precious.



Edited 8:53 a.m to add picture.

The hair - I'm not sure it's much different. I took in lots of pictures and somehow came out looking basically the same. We'll see what happens when I do it myself. This version is more layered so I'll try flipping it away from my face instead of downward with more tousling at the top. Who knows.

Have a great weekend. Hopefully I have something more thrilling to show on Monday even if it's only purchases from Fabricland. Apparently they're having a big birthday bash this weekend. My son answered the phone, listened to the message, didn't save it, and doesn't remember what it said except "there's a big sale at Fabricland" - LOL. If I can find time, I'll drop by and see.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - health

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Personal Growth - When you come to the edge of all the light you know, and are about to step off into the darkness of the unknown, faith is knowing one of two things will happen: There will be something solid to stand on, or you will be taught how to fly. - Barbara Winter, writer

Not A Thing

Productivity has been down all week. I've been feeling slightly off but if I avoided too much looking up and down or moving quickly, it wasn't too bad. Did you know that cleaning house involves a lot of looking up and down and moving quickly? Darn near did me in. I was getting so wobbly that my son finally took over and finished the dusting and vacuuming while I lay on the couch attempting to recover.

The house is clean. That's it. Not a thing got done in the studio. No knitting, no sewing, not even any project planning. My pants are still sitting on the work table waiting for the side seams to be basted together, which is frustrating, but, oh well. That's life. Today is a new day.

Maggie wrote - I haven't been to your blog in a while so looking at your most recent pictures I can tell you've lost weight!!! You look great.

LOL - thanks. The weight loss and the compliments are the bonus part of all the food allergies. If you're not interested in the fashion sewing Maggie, look back in January to see the pictures of my exhibit. It's on until this weekend which is great because my daughter flies in tomorrow morning and will get a chance to see it.

Carol wrote - Clear elastic is great. I sew it into...
KID, MD wrote - Clear elastic is absolutely the most brilliant invention ever!

Apparently I missed something because I wasn't aware of this notion before opening up the jeans. More information please. Why is it so wonderful? How and where is it used? I'll give it a try in a t-shirt Carol. Thanks.

KID, MD - Thanks for the link to Sew Sassy. I clicked through to the site and will check it out later. I'd already ordered the elastic from Pam at Fashion Sewing Supply. I've purchased from her before with excellent service. I hope it comes soon. Shipping to Canada from the US can take FOREVER only now that I know it's the "secret ingredient" to the comfort waist, I can't wait to try it.

Meanwhile, I'm moving slow this morning. I slept in. I'm going to read blogs with my one cup of coffee. And then... hopefully... I'll get this second pair of jeans basted together and can wear them around the house for a few hours. Once I see how much the stretch bags, I can adjust the seams and then finish them up tonight. My lack of wardrobe is reaching a disastrous stage. As spring arrives and we move toward summer, there's almost nothing in my closet to wear so I want to see how these work out both to make more and to have something to wear.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - feeling somewhat better this morning

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Personal Growth - Life's ups and downs provide windows of opportunity to determine your values and goals. Think of using all obstacles as stepping stones to build the life you want. - Marsha Sinetar

As little girls, we had to learn to pick ourselves up after a fall, get first aid for our scrapes, and then venture back outside to play. Recovery and reentry are also crucial skills for creative women. The world often knocks us down, and we wear the scars to signify the blows. We have to choose whether to retreat or retry. So many of the women in this book decided to reemerge from collisions with adversity. Remember their stories when you feel like you're all alone out there and want to hide out in your safety zone. Too many women get rejected once or twice and lock their creativity up in a closet forever. We all lose as a result. - page 162 of The 12 Secrets of Highly Creative Women by Gail McMeekin

Sewing fashions, creating textile art, living life is all about trying this and trying that, gathering information through experience. In each experience, there is much to learn and that learning gets taken forward into the next and the next garment, art piece, moment in life. There are many things that can knock us down. It's our choice to stay down or to get back up and keep moving, to see life from a negative perspective or to see it as full of potential and opportunity.

Collar Bones & Comfort

Too low. Too low. Too low. I tried them all on and - one after another - every t-shirt went into the goodwill pile. Why last year's necklines were so ridiculously low, I have no idea. I felt far too bare most of the summer and this year, they'd have been positively indecent. It wasn't just a little cleavage. It was full on exposure. Apparently, my chest is next in this weight loss series. I got up yesterday and noted collar bones for the first time in a long time. I'm sure they've always been there - LOL - but yesterday, they were visibly there. Sigh - my sewing is definitely NOT keeping up. Good thing t-shirts are relatively quick and easy.

My friend Francine phoned Monday night all excited about a new shipment of skirts in at Reitmans. She went on and on about the comfort waist and how amazing it was, how truly comfortable, how not as old lady as it sounds since they're elastic waisted, pull up pants. That made me laugh because two years ago, when I started buying the comfort waist jeans, I know I told her about them. I told everyone because I thought - still think - they're fabulous. Maybe because she's teeny tiny, it didn't really register. Getting things over her hips while cinching into her waist while not creating excess bulk on the stomach wouldn't have appealed to her in the same way that it does me.

She was so excited that I stopped in after driving Kyle to work yesterday and came home with this light-weight, denim skirt. The fabric looks identical to some in the discount bin at Fabricland for $4.50 a meter. This skirt is $36.00. Obviously I can sew one way less expensively. That wasn't the point so I may or may not keep it. I bought it to measure it.

Reitmans sells an entire line of comfort waist clothing. When I asked the clerk about how popular it was, she said that's what everyone wants and that over two thirds of the store is now comfort waist. This waistline really is that wonderful only you need to buy the garment a size smaller than you think because everything comfort waist is also made out of stretch fabric. A size smaller - hmm... that sounds familiar. That's why I want to measure it and compare those findings to a similar skirt pattern. I know what size to buy in this waist. I want to know what size to sew.




Here's a detail of an older pair of jeans. All of the garments have this same yoked waistband front and back. They're all made of a stretch fabric although the degree of stretch varies. If you follow the grainlines, the yoke is cut on the same straight of grain as the rest of the garment which leads you to assume that the stretch factor is the total answer and last week - when I made a muslin without sewing in a zipper and pulled it up over my hips no problem - I thought that was it however, when I examined the waistband of that skirt at the store, it was far more obvious that there was something else in there. I wanted to know what.




I took apart the waist of an older pair of jeans. The facing is sewn to the garment with a 5/8" seam allowance. When the seam allowance is edge stitched to the facing, a narrow piece of elastic is inserted with slight stretch. That's it - the magic bullet.

The elastic is clear and 1/4" wide. I'm not sure if any elastic would do. This one seems firmer and stronger than most - like plastic. I Googled clear elastic and came up with transparent elastic and the information that it is strong even when nicked, is used predominately in action wear, and must be stitched through to retain it's shape. That matches how it's used. Now to buy some - LOL.

Today, the plan is to baste the pants together so I can wear them around the house for a bit before deciding on any permanent seams. Although I can, I really don't like to alter a garment again after I thought it was finished. Like Monday's jeans. Other than that, I have a few errands to do this morning and Kyle needs to go for his monthly blood test. Sometime today I need to clean house. Tomorrow, I'm getting my hair cut. YEAH - it needs it.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - learning the "secret" of comfort waist

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Personal Growth - The right word at the right time is like a custom made piece of jewelry, and a wise friend's timely reprimand is like a gold ring slipped on your finger. Reliable friends who do what they say are like cook drinks in sweltering heat - refreshing. - Proverbs 25

The article A Reason A Season Or A Lifetime talks about friendship in three forms and about how lifetime relationships are there to teach us a lifetime of lessons, the things that we can build on to have a solid emotional foundation.

Life time friends are extremely rare. Stats say that we'll be lucky to have two or three. Reality is that all relationships are tested in some way and it is only if they make it to the other side of that testing that there is the possibility this relationship will last a lifetime - except it takes a lifetime to know. I'm sure that you've had - just as I've had - friends disappear from your life that you thought would be around longer. That hurts.

Even when you are a lifetime kind of friend, the person to whom you have given your friendship may not accept it for a lifetime. They may walk away at some point when you were completely not expecting it. Relationships are extremely important to me so that happens to me more often than I'd like. An interesting question that I've been pondering lately is how to give and receive quality friendship in a healthy way while being more in the moment. Living without expectations is incredibly difficult to do.

Two Mirrors And A Hammer

Last week's learning was more about fitting than about working with denim. I had no problem sewing it. Even multiple layers went through my machine - a Bernina 1020 - just fine using a regular needle and polyester thread. For the top stitching, I used Mettler Silk Finish, one of my favourite threads from textile work.

What I still don't know a lot about is stretch denim. After wearing the jeans for only a few hours yesterday morning, they needed to be taken in another 1/2" on each side for a total of 2". I expected them to bag but not quite that much. For the next pair, I'll baste the side seams and wear them around the house for a few hours before finishing them. Hopefully that helps. It'll be hard for me to sew it a size smaller as some books and articles advise. With enough "evidence", that'll be easier.




Carolyn of Diary of a Sewing Fanatic keeps Project Journals. That's not something I've ever done however, I can see how valuable they might be. I have been taking more and more extensive notes. Each time, I sew a pattern, I write down what I did and what to do next time and then tuck that sheet of paper inside the pattern envelope. From now on, I'll add a swatch of the fabric used and my thoughts on working with and wearing it - especially stretch fabrics. And because I might not remember which fabric went with which pattern, I'm going to start a swatch binder with wearing notes so that I know how to fit a similar fabric.




Fitting is a lot easier with a mirror. I've been using the one in the guest room clear at the other end of the hall, getting my exercise running back and forth, and that's okay only having one in the studio would be even better. I had a gift certificate from Christmas and bought this wall mirror on the weekend. It's 16" x 60" and leaning against the wall for now because I haven't decided exactly where I want it yet. A three way mirror would have been fabulous only I'm don't know where to buy one, am pretty sure they're quite expensive, and didn't really have room. Instead...




... I have this pretty mirror that my daughter bought me quite a few years ago. Originally it was for in the bathroom for make-up only now I need one of those super magnified mirrors to see anything. It'll be perfect in the studio for mirror to mirror viewing.

The hammer was only $3.99. Can you believe that? Pretty reasonable for a studio tool that will get used over and over for years. It's light - 8 oz - and about a foot long - a "tiny" hammer - just perfect for flattening seams and intersections on bulky fabrics like denim. My husband is happy to get his back - LOL.

There were lots of comments yesterday. THANK YOU so much for the input and congrats on my jeans. Just in case I gave the wrong impression, I am REALLY pleased with the way that they turned out. They were worth the work. I like them. I want more only with straight legs this time because, as KID MD wrote, how many wide leg trouser style jeans does a girl need. Exactly.

I thought I'd sew yesterday and then it ended up more of a puttering day. The studio had gotten so dusty that I wanted to stop and give it a thorough cleaning before carrying on with my next project. It's amazing how much dust is involved in sewing. I dusted the base boards and moved all the button and thread jars on the shelves and Swiffered around them and the yarn, the machines, behind the floor baskets, and under the desk and... and... and... As you know, cleaning is never done BUT... it's a lot fresher in here and ready for more projects. Now, for the rest of the house - LOL - hmm - later.

Debbie Cook wrote - Actually, they do. Or, more correctly, dart equivalents.

Of course. Duh. I wasn't thinking about darts rotated into the seam - just about the visible ones. Fashion design is really quite amazing with how they do what. Thanks for the reminder Debbie.

Karen W wrote - As to the food. Did you ever take home economy in school?

LOL - so long ago and far away. I had thought to work on conquering one meal at a time onlythat plan was not going well. On to plan B (or is it Z by now). On Sunday, I pulled out some of my new cookbooks and found so many possible recipes that I decided to focus on just two books for a while. The Gluten Free, Wheat Free, Dairy Free Cookbook contains meat dishes and The Gluten Free Vegan (obviously) doesn't. I made a Zucchini and Spicy Seed Soup from the second one yesterday. YUMMY.

I told my daughter that I'm thinking of starting another blog about my food journey. Writing about it might help me focus. Think anyone would be interested in a 47 year old woman with extensive food allergies who is only just learning to cook? Surely I'm not alone.

Linda Turske wrote - Where are you going to take your seminar with SB? I have gone to about 4 of hers and love them! I learn so much from her!

Four! Lucky you. I attended a lecture Sandra gave years and Years and YEARS ago and I was so impressed with her creativity that I've been wanting to take a class with her ever since. This one is in Nanaimo, BC, Canada. I was there in October to take a bra making workshop so I'm already familiar with the layout and the B & B that I'm staying at. My friend from Yellowknife (Northern Canada) is coming as well. Should be great fun.

sdBev wrote - Besides you've inspired me to try another jeans pattern!
Louise in SW Saskatchewan wrote - AND a Palmer and Pletsch JEANS pattern. VBG - your influence I'm sure.

LOL - I'm thinking of this as a positive influence rather than passing on my addiction. LOVELY to have company. Good luck with your jeans.

I'm not sure what I plan to do today. I debated cleaning house - it certainly needs it - however now that the studio is so nice and clean, I may just sew. I'm in the middle of a book so curling up to read for a bit is definitely in the cards. Tonight, there's knitting. Apparently, I'm in a move leisurely mode. I think it's a reaction to having people in the house non stop right now. I'm used to my quiet routine. It'll be another week before that happens. What an old lady I am - LOL.

Have a great day - Myrna

Grateful - relative safety

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Personal Growth - Mortals make elaborate plans, but God has the last word. Humans are satisfied with whatever looks good; God probes for what is good. Put God in charge of your work, then what you've planned will take place. God made everything with a place and a purpose; even the wicked are included - but for judgement. When God approves of your life, even your enemies will end up shaking your hand. Far better to be right and poor than wrong and rich. We plan the way we want to live, but only God makes us able to live it. - Proverbs 16

The other day I asked a woman I know what she was working on in her studio. She said you asked me that last time we talked too and I need to remind you that I work. It felt as if I'd had my hands slapped. Since I doubt she intended it that way, I had to stop and think of what it was in me that was reacting so strongly to what she said.

I realized that I completely don't understand that way of being - where the thing that you love to do comes last. Chores and work will always be there and if we allow them to, they'll crowd into every minute of the day and extend into forever and ever amen. That's not what I want my life to be about. Even when I was eighteen, moving out on my own for the first time, my schedule was set up so that time in the studio always happened. That's how I refresh and de-stress. It's vital.

Along with that realization came the one that I feel uncomfortable not working as if I'm freeloading and not doing my part, taking up space but not contributing fully. I know this space is necessary and I know that something else is coming my way and I know it won't be here for a few years. While I wait, enjoying fully this moment that I'm in is so important. I need to keep reminding myself of that while praying for, and trusting that, God will send THE answer. I'm attempting not to make elaborate plans and rather to wait expectantly.

Wrinkle Free: A Fantasy

Fuchsia is one of my favourite colors. I - love - love - love - these shoes. They're comfortable, easy to walk in, and looked great with my new jeans only they're a bit too high for shopping. On Saturday, I found some lower ones in a similar color, this time with pointed toes.

Here's a butt end detail my finished jeans. I'm pretty pleased with the fit. Actually, I'm REALLY REALLY REALLY pleased but trying not to brag too much - LOL. There's still room for improvement. As you can see, completely wrinkle free was a fantasy. Good thing we actually move in our clothes.




I found it interesting that the fit changed when I used a belt. That's something to pay attention to since a belt helps to cinch the garment in to your true waist. They're more wrinkle free when belt-less.

If you have feedback on these particular wrinkles, please comment. I'd love to know what you think. Off the top of my head, I'm wondering if a longer hip depth at the side seam and/or an even lower crotch curve might be the answer. I'm waiting to see because these are made from stretch denim so things will change as I wear them. A couple hours can make a big difference. This picture was taken after about two minutes of wearing - before sitting down.

Remember the huge waist - I took it in with darts? Most jeans don't have darts. Why not? They add a lot of shape and with the pockets, you can't even see them. Worked for me.




Above is the back taken standing straight and below is the back with a bit of movement. All in all - pretty good.




Here's the front. After these images were taken, I took up the hem another inch. With it this long, it looked like I was attached to the ground, even with heels.

By aligning center front and center back - while keeping the grainlines parallel to each other - I was able to transfer the inseam and crotch information from the McCalls 5592 jeans above to the KwikSew 3625 pattern.




Below is the pattern envelope in case you forgot what they look like. I really like the yoke across the top instead of a waistband. With this pair, I'll narrow the legs so they are straight as opposed to flared. Not in advance. Once everything else is sewn, I can pin and contemplate, pin and contemplate, before cutting off the excess. AND then... with my third pair, I'll know how much to cut off and can adjust both patterns. YES YES!



This fabric is a printed, light weight denim. I really like the turquoise and blue. I'm not too sure about the gold however that darkest color is more burgundy. It has a LOT more stretch. I'm not entirely sure how it'll go. For that reason, I cut the crotch curve slightly higher again. As I said before, I can take it out but I can't put it back once it's cut off. Better safe than sorry.




Before I leave on the 8th - to take a three day workshop with Sandra Betzina and Ron Collins - I want to sew a blouse muslin and another jean muslin. The blouse will most likely be McCall's 6035 and the jeans Sandra's Vogue 1034. That's why I'm making a second pair of jeans right away and possibly a third - to know if transferring the crotch and inseam information makes the click. I hope so. If true, every pair of pants from here on in will benefit.

Talk tomorrow - Myrna

Grateful - the ability and the freedom to make choices

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Personal Growth - I've finished reading The Cure by Dr. Thomas Brantley. As is true with any book, I don't agree with - or at least am not willing to follow - everything he says. From the arguments and examples he put forward, I do agree that hydration, detoxification, elimination, and quality food are important.

Dr. Brantley supports eating predominately raw foods. My take on that is that a hundred years ago people did not eat mostly raw food and yet they were healthy because they did eat nutritious, unaltered, pesticide free, foods. Switching to mostly raw foods would be quite difficult for me personally and for our family. As with many things, it's about balance.

Yummy tasting food and the socialization around food are important to me. I already have allergies that make eating and eating out difficult. I don't want to add any more ways of being that will ostracize me. Drinking more water, eating better quality foods, eating some raw foods (salads, veggies, fruit, etc), and utilizing healthier cooking methods along with digestive enzymes to make sure I am processing and eliminating food are all things that I can do. That's a good place to start.

When the desire to cook finally kicks in - she says with great hope - this path should be doable. There is wonderfully tasting, healthy food out there if you (I) take the time to learn about and how to make it. I'm slowly getting there, not from a desire to cook but from a desire to NOT eat what packages and restaurants are offering.

We went out for dinner on Saturday and even though the herb chicken was technically on my list, I wondered if it was genetically altered chicken. That awareness is making a lot of options unpalatable which could be the click that gets me into cooking. We hope. It's time to pull out all those cookbooks I've bought in the last year and find some recipes. I know that a HUGE part of the answer will be meal planning. I just wish I felt like it - VBG. I'd rather sew.