Give Me A Case

No cleaning - no sewing - not much of anything happened yesterday. I opted for sitting in the curl-up chair and reading along with a walk around the block in the sunshine. We're having some absolutely gorgeous fall days. The leaves are gloriously shaded and the sky is sparkling. It's a shame not to stop and appreciate such beauty while it's here. It's a tight competition between fall with its colorful goodbye and spring with its fresh green shoots of potential. Both touch the soul.

The blog is late today. Sorry - I've been socializing - breakfast with my friend Sharon. We chatted and laughed and cried and complained and... you know how it goes. Aren't girlfriends just the best? At one point, just as the waitress was pouring more coffee, Sharon made a comment about "MEN" and the waitress burst out laughing and said I so agree. The sisterhood - another beautiful thing.

The talk on hormones last night was quite enlightening. For instance, did you know that this year the largest group of women turns fifty-one. As Lorna put it, there has never in the history of mankind been so many hot flashing, crying, angry, hormonal women all at once - maybe NOW we'll get some attention.

Lorna is Lorna Vanderhaeghe. Her website - Hormone Help - contains a LOT of valuable information on all kinds of hormone issues from infertility to menopause. She really knows her stuff. She'd start talking about an issue (and a product) and I'd think I'll take one of those and then another issue/product and I'd think and one of those too. When she said, and if your husband drives you crazy and you can't even stand the way he chews never mind how he looks and you're crying all the time, you need some AdrenaSmart - I thought GIVE ME A CASE ! So...




...meet AdrenaSmart, my new BFF. Apparently, "she" works fast. I'm debating half the container right now - VBG. My husband, in a very brave moment, said go for the whole thing. He's willing to work overtime to fund my new drug habits and the boys will buy it for me and set up the intravenous drip. Hmm... a little telling don't you think? LOL - I'll just be happy if my emotions find their way a little lower down from the surface, aren't quite so raw, and stop erupting into tears with the slightest provocation. THEN, I think life will find a more even flow. Gosh, this aging stuff is a pain. I'm starting with Adrena but I've got a list. A whole lot of me is going to be a whole lot better soon.

Ruthie K wrote - I can see an online class at somewhere like PR has a large possible user base and the technology to run the classes.

Yes. I'm not sure exactly how Deepika organizes things but the concept is very similar to where I taught before. Hopefully, my nine years of online teaching experience and positive reviews will be in my favour although I haven't heard back yet. It takes time. PR is just one option. We'll see what happens.

gMarie wrote - Oh I love the book idea. I have a few TNT patterns, but don't know the steps to take to get from what I have that I know fits, to the inspiration

Sheila wrote - Yes please !!! or you could just blog ?????????

Thanks for the feedback. There were 219 readers yesterday and the two of you commented on the book. That doesn't mean that's all the interest that there was in the book/workshop idea but it is a pretty standard direct marketing result of 1-2%. Not that I was marketing but you get what I'm saying. That's why an environment like PatternReview.com would be helpful for teaching because it can connect the percentage of women worldwide who are interested in this topic creating a full class, something that's not as easily possible in one location or through one blog.

Yes... I could just blog. And I most likely will blog about some of my projects however, I won't blog about every one is such detail as that would take a long time and a whole book. That said, just blogging won't earn me an income. That's an issue. This sabbatical is only scheduled to last until next September. At that point, I need a job or at the very least a plan of action. Maybe Adrena, my new BFF, will help me to see the forest for the trees.

Laura wrote - Tricky stuff. Right now, I'm in the midst of a dream about starting my own small publishing company, which is not the most practical plan ever. But I've been very practical the last few years and I feel like I'm losing my identity, my ability to be unique and use the skills that only I have. It's a dilemma.

If I could reach out and give you a GREAT BIG HUG, I so would. Thank you. Your words exactly match what I'm feeling - as if I'm disappearing in this weighing out of all the options, ceasing to exist, becoming bored and boring, losing my me-ness.

Getting a job might save my sanity in one way but it would also not allow me to be there for my son in another way which, because that is so important to me, would drive me crazy and make me feel guilty. Getting a job will earn me money in one way but it would also cost me money in terms of transportation, clothing, additional food, and so on AND, most likely (considering the jobs immediately available), result in a net income of such that it's not worth the stress on the family.

The jobs that I could easily secure right now are either low paying or working alone or both such as house cleaning or painting and wouldn't resolve some of my issues (in particular loneliness) but would mean more pressure on me to balance home and work. Getting a job doing a task that is not something you really want to do might solve an issue over here but it will create another one over there where you feel as if you've become invisible in a sea of sucking it up and making do. Yes, we all have to compromise and make-do in some areas BUT... there has to be some feeding of the soul AND... as you're saying... there is this thing that I love to do (sew, write, teach) and that I'm amazingly good at and that I'd really love to make a career of again. Somehow, somewhere, there is a way to make it all work.

It's noon. I'm off to have lunch with Adrena and then a walk around the block and then a tidy up of the studio because Sharon is coming over tomorrow to sew another bra and I have freshly washed fabric everywhere. After that, I'm not sure. I'll let you know tomorrow.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - info on hormones/AdrenaSmart

A Fabric Snob

On Friday, the first day of the class, I worked on the Vogue 2983 skirt. Ron thought the muslin fit well and needed only minor changes. The changes and methods he suggested were what I expected. That felt good. It's nice to know that I'm on the right track.

We added an inch through the back width and shortened the overall length by 5 1/2" bringing the hem to just above knee level. The pattern pieces are so weirdly shaped that it was fussy to do. I expected the resulting skirt to be more of a muslin and it was although not because of the alterations. They worked out fine. I didn't like the fabric. It was limp and lacked body. I'm planning to sew the design again. This time, I'll use a more substantial fabric and won't cut the center back on the bias. Instead of supporting the design, it created issues.

On Sunday, I began by working on the Vogue 2893 top. Again, Ron agreed with the alterations. We added 5" of width to the back hip, shortened the armhole by 1/2", and widened the bicep by 1" on the upper sleeve piece. I tested that by inserting a new sleeve. Instead of sewing the top in class, I decided to finish it at home where I could underline the silk dupioni and give the whole thing more concentrated attention.

As I said earlier, sewing in a crowded area was difficult. While working on the top muslin, I reached forward to pick something up off the table and knocked my coffee cup over spilling coffee on Dorothy's white blouse in progress. I ran with it for the cold water and Sarah cleaned up the mess but it didn't help. The coffee wouldn't come out.

Dorothy (who told us she was 76) wasn't in the least bit upset. She was incredibly gracious and said Oxyclean would take it out no problem. Kathy told me later that Dorothy was more worried about me than anything. It did shake my nerves especially - LOL - since - as you know - I'm a hormonal mess living on the edge. I decided to do something familiar instead, like sew the black t-shirt I'd brought cut out and ready.




This version has a ballerina neckline. I shifted the pattern center off fold by 1/2" meaning there was an additional 1" of width to the neckline. Using a twin needle, I made a series of tucks to eat up the width and add interest to the neckline. It worked well. I like the subtle texture. I bought an even wider twin needle to try on another garment. I really enjoy working with knits. Good thing since I've bought lots over the past year.




On the way home, I stopped at the Fabricland in Chilliwack to check out their bargains which weren't nearly as wonderful as the ones in Nanaimo. I found two knits both of 100% unknown fibres. I really don't have a problem with that labelling when the bolts are in the bargain section but on the floor, I feel we should be told what we're buying. I'm becoming such a fabric snob. I want quality fabric for cheap prices. These two feel like rayon spandex blends. They washed up beautifully. The grey was $1.50 a meter on sale and the purple was $6.00 a meter on sale. Six is more than I normally pay however, this is one of those fabrics that I know I'd be drawn to in RTW and that's still a good price.




My order from Bra Makers Supply was here when I arrived home. Included was the black microfibre tricot, the white antron jersey, and the white swirl patterned simplex. The first two were test samples for panties. Neither will work. The microfibre is too heavy and the jersey doesn't have enough stretch. I'll use them and the simplex for bras. I also bought...




... the Amanda pattern for a seamless, soft cup, bra. It's sewn using either regular or push-up angled foam cups also sold by Bra Makers Supply. Apparently the push ups are very pushy. I didn't get those. I got...




... the regular ones in my size just to experiment. Holding them in front of the mirror, they look gigantic. Sewn in, they should be great. I've sent a question to my instructor about my daughter's bra. My guess is that in order to use a more supportive or lace fabric I will go up one cup size and shave off the top of the lower cup. She suggested that before as another solution so I want to confirm. Otherwise, Jessica called yesterday and said she really REALLY loves the bra. That's what I was looking for.

Getting up yesterday morning, I missed the interesting conversations on a variety of topics that I'd had each morning over breakfast at the B & B. I missed the creative energy and interaction and the challenge and learning of the workshop. I missed the stimulation of new sights and the camaraderie of dinners and the intellectual exchange with friends. As much as I love my husband and my boys, coming home felt heavy because most of the day, I am alone. Although I can sew any time I want, I don't always want to which means that I am often both bored and broke. That's not a good combo. With money, there would be so many interesting avenues to explore. Without it, life can become a prison.

I spent yesterday thinking a LOT - as in probably too much - about what to do next. While I'd like to hang in there another year, until next September at least, because everything will be different when Kyle graduates, I'm not sure that I can. Equally, I'm not sure that I can't. I feel torn between two right answers. It's surprisingly difficult.

My idea is/was to write a book on T & T patterns teaching how to take a basic t-shirt and skirt pattern and use them as the starting point for fashion design. This would include design ideas and ways to find and to work with inspiration. Writing the book and developing the workshop greatly interests me. It's a version of the work I used to do and really enjoyed. BUT. When I asked for their advice, Kathy said it would be a harder class to sell at a local shop and tough getting going. Ron agreed but said I'd be great at teaching it and that I could use his name as a reference. They both agreed that fashion sewing was on the increase and that years down the road this concept could do well. That's the grey yes.

I can easily see myself putting together a book and a workshop and enjoying every minute of teaching it. I'm a fabulous how-to writer, an excellent instructor (I have the reviews to support that statement), and a solid artist. I get it. That said, I know that even big names are struggling and that it would cost money and take copious amounts of time and energy to put together a project like this with no results guaranteed. Because of that, the stress could zap any enjoyment gained. Ask me how I know.

SO...unless someone comes knocking on my door offering me a real life class to teach, or an online one (Edited at 9:55 AM - I think online would be an excellent venue so I sent an email to PatternReview.com suggesting the idea. We'll see what happens.), or a book contract, and makes the dream doable, it isn't looking like the right direction and I'm not holding my breath that that will happen. Knowing all that needs to be done and how unlikely realistic success is, I find myself drawing back from following up the dream. That's not good and it is. I also don't want to chase rainbows. I want more money, more intellectual stimulation, more interaction, more of a lot of things in my life but not more stress. Have you been here, done this? How did you cope?

Today, I'm cleaning house. If I have time, I'll finish sewing the t-shirt I started on Sunday right after I figure out what's wrong with my serger. Right at the end of the class, the lower looper thread broke, came unthreaded, and wouldn't fix easily. I took that as a sign to pack up. Tonight, I'm going out for dinner with my friend Rosemarie (the weaver) and then to a talk on hormones at the health store. It's just hormones as opposed to menopause but hopefully interesting info. If not, it'll at least be fun to go out with a friend.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - although I'm in the itchy anxious vacuum of the unknown, I am confident that an answer will appear and that when it does, it will be just perfect.

Battle Royal & Perfect Bras

There was only me and one of the couples left at the B & B yesterday morning. We had a wonderful chat while eating a delicious breakfast of baked pears with formed granola on top drizzled in a honey and yogurt sauce. After breakfast, I drove to the Bocca Cafe to pick up a gluten free, vegan sandwich and another piece of chocolate cake for my lunch before heading to the ferry. Although the landing was in sunshine, by the time we made it to the dock in Vancouver it was pouring. The drive went downhill from there.

There was lots of rain and lots of wind and for some reason the alignment on my car was out and it was battle royal keeping it on the road all the way home. I'd meant to enjoy the scenery, even stop to take a few pictures of the fall colors for you this morning. That didn't happen. I did get home exhausted, unpack, and spend a lazy evening doing nothing. The fabric is stacked by the washer and once I get back from Kyle's doctor's appointment this morning, I'll start cycling that through. There are two more pieces that I picked up in Chilliwack and want to show you.

SO... the only sewing news is that my daughter received the bra in the mail and it fits perfectly with the bridge nicely against the body. She'd like more just like that please. YES YES. While I was away, some more bra supplies arrived. Included in the package is a pattern for a soft cup bra with no seams. That'll be interesting to explore. I've noticed that when I cut out a t-shirt, the front and back go side by side and the sleeve only takes up a portion of the remaining width so there is sufficient fabric left for making a bra. LOL - all my t-shirts could have matching bras and, with another half a meter of fabric, two pairs of matching panties too. What fun.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - home safe and unpacked

A Grey Yes

Class is over. It's time to pack up and go home. This is bitter sweet. I'd love to learn more from Ron and continue spending time with other creative women AND I'm looking forward to being back in the studio. That's one of the things...




... I found a bit difficult. After my 300 square foot studio, sewing in a 2' x 4' rectangle with a shared ironing and cutting board is an adjustment especially as we are bumping bums every time we move about. It's not that I can't be polite and share - I can - I just had to remember how - VBG (very big grin).

The first class that I took here in Nanaimo was the bra-making workshop which didn't require many supplies. The second class was with Ron Collins and Sandra Betzina which was held at a different location. This third experience has taught me how to pack for future workshops. I plan is to bring muslins ready for fitting so that I can benefit from Ron's expertise however, I won't sew the garments until later when I return home. Instead, I'll bring patterns that are already fitted with the fabric cut out and ready to sew. At least that's my theory now. I'll test it and let you know how that works.

There were seven students in the class plus Ron. We each had a sewing table around the outside of the room with one long cutting table in the middle. Two ironing boards were set up off to the side by the kitchen. Lunches were provided. They were YUMMY and made to work with my allergies which was greatly appreciated. I'm going home with lots of food ideas and, hopefully, some small touch of the cooking bug.




Both Kathy and Ron both love to sew and to cook. I'm not sure how long Kathy and her husband Perry have owned the Snip & Stitch. They have done an amazing job of building their business and providing quality products and classes. If you have a chance to visit, do. I'll be back in February for another workshop with Ron.

I talked to Kathy and to Ron about my business idea. They felt it would be tough getting going and had potential because they see the interest in fashion sewing increasing. That's a grey yes which means I'll need to give the idea more thought. My friend Barb drove up from Victoria to have dinner with me last night (1 1/2 hours) and we talked it over. She agrees - more thought. You know how good I am at that. Shouldn't be a problem. I'll do a mental pro and con sheet and weigh out the pluses and minuses. We'll see.

One key ingredient for me is that any business idea I follow up does NOT cost our family money. That's not someplace I can go again. I won't be spending copious amounts of money to maybe or maybe not make money. That so rarely happens and it's not likely in my field. Even the big names are finding it difficult to make ends meet so if I'm going to be a happy little name, I need to go about this wisely. Wisely is way more fun and that's important to me. I've been burned out once before and I'm not willing to go there again.

As you know, money management is also really important to me. I saved for this trip and came with cash. Cash holidays are fabulous. They're so guilt-less and I find when I have cash, I'm even more picky about what I buy. There were some great deals. One of the women said that she can never find those kinds of buys. That was interesting for two reasons. The first is that we were shopping in the same places so those buys were available to both of us. The other is that I used to feel that way about ideas and then I realized if you invite the flow of ideas into your life and welcome them, they will come. So will good buys. I now expect to find them and I do. If anything, I have too many ideas and too many good deals. LOL - I can handle that - I think!




Remember a week or so ago when I cut out the Vintage Vogue jacket from the baby cord with the purple paisley? I didn't like the jacket but I loved the fabric and regretted its loss. When I was here in April, that fabric was in the bargain section. Coming back, I hoped it would still be there and it was - 3 meters at $2.50 a meter. The bargain section was on sale 50% off. Perfect. AND... a linen rayon blend in a denim blue at 70% off.




This lime and black rayon knit was also 70% off. I'm not sure which side is the right side. They're both gorgeous. I bought it and the zebra print below from Kathy at the Snip & Stitch. The zebra print is a polyester blend...




... that was 40% off and has a wonderful, suede-like, feel. The color is incorrect on the monitor. It's a more cream than white with dark green and black.

You can only seeing half the fabric in this image. The other half is the same as the top with the blue and black. This is cotton silk, regular $22.00 a meter, on sale for 70% off. It is an incredibly light and flowing fabric. I'm debating a dress or skirt with pleats or gathers that I normally wouldn't sew because of the bulk. Such a light fabric makes it possible.




What appears to be two fabrics on the left is the same cotton silk, border print in a pink and orange colorway also regular $22.00 a meter. Then the blue/purple one. Then a plain blue cotton silk that was regular $18.00 a meter and a purple cotton voile that was regular $10.00 a meter. These were all on 70% off. The purple is to underline and strengthen the silk dupioni for the lace-up top. I'll tell you more about that tomorrow when I'm back home and settled.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - a wonderful weekend of learning, shared interests, and camaraderie

Something Similar

It was tight - especially with 45 minutes spent crawling through morning traffic in first gear - BUT - I just made an earlier ferry which gave me two hours to spend downtown. YES YES. This is my third trip to Nanaimo in a year. I have some favourite places. One shop, A To Zebra, moved but only around the corner so I found them except they didn't have anything all that interesting in stock right now - unlucky for my eyes; lucky for my wallet.




The Bocca Cafe in Old Town is a gluten free, vegan restaurant WITH FLAVOUR. It's always nice when those two things go hand in hand. I had turkey cranberry lentil soup with gluten free bread for lunch and a piece of gluten free, vegan, chocolate cake to go. It's a HUGE piece. I had half of it last night for a bedtime snack - not that I usually have a bedtime snack but... I'm on holidays - LOL - and it's chocolate cake!




Diagonally across the street is Betsy's Boutique - a consignment store. Someone with feet two size larger than mine has the most exquisite taste in shoes. I kept picking up pairs, checking the size, and putting them down disappointed. I could have bought so many had they fit. I did leave with a V neck cashmere sweater with a fur (fake) collar. It is quite lovely and so was the price - $15.00. It might look nice with the skirt I'm working on this weekend.




Remember this Mod Cloth knock off that I made last January using my T & T pattern? Yesterday, I walked into Cynthia's Wardrobe and there was something similar - a Joseph Ribkoff top with cap sleeves and the same pleats and buttons for $137.00. Not being Joseph Ribkoff, mine was only ten bucks (or less) to sew.

There was also a blouse from a company in Vancouver. I'd never heard of them before so I don't know anything about them but I do know that it looked EXACTLY like this pattern of Sandra Betzina's. Exactly. For $187.00, I'm sure glad I sew - LOL - only I sew to be unique so exactly doesn't appeal to me.




Dinner with Lorrie and her husband was wonderful. I had a great time. It was comfortable, easy, yummy. Really yummy. I sure wish she lived close enough to give me cooking lessons. My repertoire would make leaps and bounds I'm sure. I did come home with some ideas. It's really quite amazing to watch someone in the kitchen who knows what they're doing and actually likes cooking. There's a flow and an energy and it looks so easy. I imagine with more practice, I'll look a little less helpless - VBG.

Sometimes, I just wonder at the oddities of life, why things happen the way they do. I've been actively looking to make new friends for the past four years. At home, I can't seem to make any progress even though I've gone to hip hop and belly dancing lessons, tried several choirs, taken parks & rec courses, attended ladies meetings, and joined three knitting groups. Nothing. When I do find someone that I click with, they always seem to live somewhere else. Lorrie and I think a lot alike and share similar interests. We're certainly within typing distance but a walk, a coffee, a lunch would be lovely to share regularly. Something closer than five hours, a ferry, and another forty-five minute drive.

Lorrie mentioned a book she read by Barbara Sher that talked about scanners and divers. Apparently, I'm a diver - someone who looks at one subject deeply. Too funny. Too true. I hadn't heard this concept before. I'm wondering if it's in Barbara's book I Could Do Anything If I Only Knew What It Was: How To Discover What You Really Want And How To Get It. It's strange at forty-eight to be figuring that out - again. The title sounds like one I should read.

The B & B is as lovely as it looked on-line. The hosts are very nice although it's run more like a hotel than a home with guests so they have their half and we have ours. There are two other couples here (although I'm not a couple so that's not quite the right phrasing but you know what I mean) - one from California and one from Oregon. Both are friendly and outgoing which should make for lively breakfasts.

Class starts this morning at ten. I'll leave early to make sure the shop is where I think it is. I checked the map and it seems I'm oriented but you never know. I like being early too. That way I can get unpacked and set up in plenty of time without rushing. Not that there's a rush. I'm on sewcation - fun and easy and responsibility-free.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - safe drive, new friends

I Packed Light

About the time this posts, I'm backing down the driveway aiming for the 12:30 ferry from Vancouver to Nanaimo. The drive shouldn't take six hours except for morning traffic in the city. Every time I have to go through that, I am SO THANKFUL that I live here. It's yuck. BUT... soon... I... can...




... relax on your own, sun drenched, private deck..... Doesn't that sound divine? Those words alone hooked me never mind the gorgeous grounds and the reputation for yummy food and friendly hosts. I'm really looking forward to this B & B. As you can see, it's beautiful with a private washroom, sitting area, and deck. It's in a semi-rural area about ten minutes from the workshop.




The Snip & Stitch is owned by Kathy and her husband. They do a fabulous job of providing products and organizing workshops and seem to really know their client base. With three day workshops, lunch is provided. Apparently my allergies are not a problem. Funny...

... that's exactly what Lorrie said when she invited me for dinner tonight. Her and her husband live about twenty-five minutes from my B & B. It should be a lovely drive with fall colors. Lorrie and I have never met. We read each other's blogs. Meeting other women, who share my interests, that I never otherwise would have met, is such a wonderful benefit of the Internet and what a treat to have someone cook for me. I'm feeling spoiled.




I packed light. Yeah right - what a joke. It's true if you're talking "personal" items. There's one small suitcase of clothes and a toiletry bag. If you're talking sewing - LOL. There's the sewing machine in its case, the fabric bag, the laptop case, the knitting bag, the serger box with other tools, and the flat box with the cutting mat and table extension. And then, there's the bag of winter gear just in case and the one of gluten/dairy/corn/soy/etc free foods just so I don't starve. In other words, a whole trunk full and - honestly - I did pack light.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - prayers for safe traveling and a fun holiday

More T & T Fun

T & T patterns fascinate me. They're the blank canvas of fashion sewing. Within their tried, tested, and true framework, there's the potential to go in endless directions. Fun! An expert on working the T & T is Carolyn of Diary of a Sewing Fanatic. If you haven't already discovered her blog, you'll be amazed at the different permutations of her T & T dress.




This is the same T & T pattern that you saw on Monday only this time, I've used a V neckline and the gathered sleeves from McCall's 6164 with a 1" petite adjustment to the cap to fit my shortened armhole.

T & T patterns take a while to develop. I think you need to sew a pattern at least a half dozen times to become familiar enough with it to get the basic shape right. After that, you can start playing with the obvious design aspects like neckline shapes and shorter or longer sleeves. And from there, things get more and more exciting. If only in your dreams, and the intimate reality of your studio, you are a fashion designer. YES YES!

Raglan sleeves don't typically look good on my bottom heavy figure. The diagonal seam line makes my shoulders look even narrower and the rounded shoulder seam looks droopy and unstructured as did the dolman sleeve shown Monday. HOWEVER, I'm intrigued by the idea of small ruffles on the sleeve cap and a raglan sleeve is perfect for that application. The ruffles would add visual interest and width making it more applicable to my body type. First, I need to know the pattern fits so I'm making a basic raglan t-shirt to wear under sweaters this winter. My theory is, if it's ugly, it'll be covered.



I don't want to reinvent the "wheel" so I'm combining New Look 6977 with my T & T pattern. The 6977 pattern has excellent reviews on PatternReview.com. Everyone chose highly recommend although that's somewhat irrelevant in my case because - as you can see - I'm not really using the pattern, just the design lines.

The blue lines above are the front shape of my T & T pattern. The pink lines are the front shape of the New Look 6977 pattern. The front of the New Look pattern contains the necessary extra for the front gathering. The front of my pattern contains the easing for the bust. It's in the side seam between the underarm and the waist. To copy the 6977 design lines to my T & T, I aligned the center front and the underarm seam on both patterns and traced the armhole and neckline shape.




Typically, I make a 1" petite adjustment through the armhole and sleeve cap. This pattern is no exception except that the sleeve cap is the armhole as well. The curved line of the tissue with the single notch that you see on the left above is the shoulder seam of the New Look 6977 pattern. Through the paper, you'll note that it extends one inch past the shoulder seam of my T & T pattern. The adjustment is vertical as opposed to horizontal, almost parallel to the straight of grain line on the sleeve front and back.




None of the reviews mentioned the width of the neckline as a problem however, I have quite narrow shoulders. In this image, you can see that the neckline would be way over by my bra strap. That seems too wide. It's easier to add width now and take it off if I don't want it than it is to wish I had it later.




In this step, I've both narrowed the neckline and extended the armhole seams. If I follow this pattern, the neckline will be as wide as it normally is with my T & T pattern. If I want to make it narrower, it's simply a matter of taking off more fabric in the width, but not the depth, of the neckline.




Above, I've used a French Curve to merge the design lines of my T & T pattern with the extended design lines of the New Look 6977 pattern along the front neck. I've also marked the two dots for the front gathering and the length of elastic to use. Even if I widened the neckline, this aspect would not change because it would be width not depth being altered.

I planned to take this t-shirt along on sew-cation as the third project and then felt like sewing last night and now it's done. Just before I cut out the sleeves, I thought better of the short cap. They're not flattering to my bicep and, since I was already using a raglan sleeve which is also not flattering, it seemed like a double no-no. I used the McCall's 6167 sleeve to make the length adjustments.




To sew the neckline, I serged a long strip of binding right sides together with the garment, folded it over to the wrong side, and then stitched it in place before trimming away the excess. This time, I used a double needle placing the left needle in the ditch of the seam and the right needle on the binding. It worked fabulously.

And here's the finished t-shirt. Like before, it's black so you can't really see the details. There's something a little bit wonky about the curve of the shoulder. I'm not sure if I'll play with it or not because I prefer a set-in sleeve but at least I know what to do. It's good and enough to wear under a sweater and after I give it a wash, I'll see what I think. All of these black t-shirts are slightly less black than I'd like. I'm debating dyeing them. Has anyone done that? What did you think? What dye did you use?

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - confidence to design

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Personal Growth - Virginia Woolfe wrote, "Across the broad continent of a woman's life falls the shadow of the sword". On one side of that sword, she said, there lies convention and tradition and order, where "all is correct". But on the other side of that sword, if you're crazy enough to cross it and choose a life that does not follow convention, "all is confusion. Nothing follows a regular course." Her argument was that the crossing of the shadow of that sword may bring more interesting existence to a woman, but you can bet it will also be more perilous. - page 93, Eat Pray Love, by Elizabeth Gilbert

Sewcation Projects

At 1:00 yesterday, I turned my back on the dishes, stepped around the laundry, and headed to my studio to sew. When Howard phoned, his first question was are you sewing? So nice to have the support of your spouse. He's taking Thursday to Monday off work while I'm away on holiday. YES YES - this will be good for both of us.

I'm going to a three day workshop in Nanaimo, BC on Vancouver Island. There will be eight students in the class. Our instructor is Ron Collins who you might know from his work with Sandra Betzina. I've studied with Ron before and he's a wonderful instructor, lots of fun. One of the other students is Sarah, my friend who visited a couple weeks ago. I met her in two previous workshops. Another is Ann, a member of Stitcher's Guild who I met on-line. I'm looking forward to a wonderful time.

We can work on anything we want with Ron's help. My main focus is two of the patterns from my Self Imposed Sewing Club (SISC) however, I'm also going to cut out another black t-shirt to work on at the beginning while waiting for my turn with Ron and/or at the end if my projects finish up sooner than I think. Most likely, my eyes are too big for my sewing time BUT... if I need it, I'll have it. Too much to do is better than sitting around doing nothing.


The jacket of Vogue 2983 is also on my SISC list however, I'm only taking the skirt with me. It'll be my starter project in a lightweight black linen. The pattern is unlined. I think I'll add a lining otherwise a slip will be needed to keep it from catching on tights and walking up my thighs. NOT a good idea.

In the front, there are three pleats. On each side, two fold toward center front and one folds toward the side creating a group of pleats in the middle and a box pleat on each side. There are supposed to be pockets under the outside pleats. I left them off to avoid unnecessary bulk. The side back piece ....

... wraps around to the front on a diagonal. The center back pieces are cut on the bias. This will help with a closer fit although right now, the pattern is slightly too tight and somewhat too long. There are no length adjustment lines on the tissue. I know how I would alter the pattern but before I do, I want to see what Ron suggests and why.

I've talked about the Vogue 2893 top before. I sewed it last Christmas out of a knit, washed the finished top to remove chalk marks, and it shrunk even though I had prewashed the fabric. That time, I used a rhinestone zipper in the back. This time, I'm sewing it in a raspberry colored, silk dupioni and will use fabric loops instead of grommets, and a self fabric tie or organza instead of the recommended shoe lace, to lace it up.




The pattern I used last year was too big. Downsizing it caused a lot of unnecessary frustration. This time, I ordered the correct size - for my shoulders at least! Like the skirt, I sewed this muslin in one size without my typical adjustments (widening for the hip for one) and will see what Ron has to say. The center front and center back openings, the princess seams, and the side seams will make alterations easy.

This back view in particular intrigues me because it illustrates where fabric needs to be removed in order to compensate for my high hips and short center back length. I'll start by opening up the princess seams and see how much added width shifts those wrinkles but I know they won't go away completely.

This top will need a strapless bra. I read the instructions for sewing one in The Bra-makers Manual - it bugs me that there's an editing error in the title even! - and it's not that complicated. There's a pink, iridescent, athletic fabric in the bargain section at Fabricland right now that would make a perfect bra to go under the raspberry dupioni. The fabric is a very strong stretch, like band fabric. I could get enough to make co-ordinating control panties to go with. What fun!

The linen and the dupioni fabrics for these sewcation projects are from my stash. So is the lining fabric and all the notions except for a 9" black zipper. That's the only thing I had to buy. It's such a good feeling to be sewing from my stash. YES YES

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - feeling well prepared for my holiday

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Personal Growth - 1 Corinthians 15 - Throw yourself into the work of the Master confident that nothing you do is a waste of time or effort.




This textile postcard arrived in my mailbox yesterday. It's from one of my students. On the back, she wrote: There's at least some lime green on this card. I just wanted to let you know how much all of your classes (all 3 pressing classes, the QU creativity class, especially Women Art Life) have influenced me. My style has developed into colorful scraps stitched like this card, sometimes it's rectangles, sometimes vertical or diagonal stripes. I love scraps and postcards.

On the weekend, I received several private emails written to share how much my blog, my books, or my workshops have meant to the writer. Life is good but as you know it's not smooth at the moment. In my struggle to figure it all out, these words of affirmation are such a gift.

I'm thankful for these gentle reminders to send out positive ripples and the awareness that I am exactly where, and doing exactly what, God has for me now. I'm also aware that this may be it. Instead of thinking it's not enough and looking for something more. I want to embrace the here and now. If more arrives, fine. If not, by always watching for it I will have missed the opportunity to be all that I can be in this moment. Remind me next time I'm being cranky - VBG.

Floppy Bunny Ears

Marybeth wrote - I read your post and it's like you're reading my mind! I'm sorry you're having a rough time but I'm so glad I'm not the only one!!!

YES and exactly. There aren't sufficient words to express how grateful I am for all the comments this past weekend. Like Marybeth, I don't wish a hard time on anyone and yet there is a comfort in knowing I'm not alone. Your support, encouragement, and suggestions for how to cope with this stage of life are much appreciated. Thank you. Some thoughts... (that you can skip by fast forwarding to the leopard print top).

In 1973, Jean Ray Laury wrote The Creative Woman's Getting It All Together At Home Handbook. The blurb on the back begins with the question How does a creative woman who is committed to home and family meet her needs for self-expression and communication? Supposedly the book answers this question. I need to read it again because what I remember so clearly is not the answer but the anger of the women interviewed toward the men in their life. There was an attitude of how dare they expect me to cook and clean and look after children when I'm being creative.

Thirty years later, in a totally different culture, the anger comes across as unreasonable. Life involves tradeoffs. Reading the book, it seemed to me that the man working outside the home to earn a supporting income made it possible for the woman inside the home to be creative and that some division of labour had to happen to accommodate that ability. I believe that's still true no matter who is the primary income earner. It's true in my situation.

Howard works twelve hours a day, six days a week, and lives in constant pain. Pain is selfish. It can't help but be with its all-consuming-ness. By the time he gets home from work, he's barely functioning. I would have absolutely no respect for myself were I to then require him to perform chores around the house that I can and - IMHO - should be doing so that I can spend my time doing only those things that I enjoy. His working outside the home makes my not working possible. My not working outside the home makes his working possible. Irregardless of whether I like these tasks or not, they are my share of our joint experience at this moment in time. Love it or hate it, it's me that needs the attitude adjustment.

At one time, we had a housekeeper and daycare. At one time, Howard did all the grocery shopping. At one time, my children each had cooking days. At one time, we would divide up the housecleaning chores and get it all done together. At one time, I ran a business. Those times are past. While it seems that I'm getting the raw end of this deal in that I'm acquiring more and more of the work that I don't enjoy doing, I also completely understand that as the unscheduled one, right now this is my job and that Howard and the boys have their jobs. I may not like it and that's not the point. Many people get up every morning and go to jobs they don't like because they are doing what needs to be done. I also realize that for me, it's not so much the actual work as it is the emotions especially of overwhelming responsibility.

Last week, I talked about the previous Sunday's sermon. I paraphrased a quote from William Barclay. The actual quote is: It is not only men like Paul who have been given a task from God; to every person God gives a task. It may be one which all men will know and which history will remember or it may be one which no one will ever hear; BUT in either case, it is a task from God. I talked about realizing that - at this time in my life - my purpose is being lived out in small and silent and invisible ways and about my desire for BIG and RECOGNITION. Trouble brews at that intersection. By focusing on what I do not have, I fail to be grateful for what I do have.




Last week when my friend Sharon was over to sew, she was having trouble tracing the bra pattern because of all the interfering lines on my pressing surface. This board is one of my favourite studio tools only the surface is now littered with thousands of felt pen marks from tracing patterns. I gave Sharon a piece of paper to place under the pattern making it easier to trace the correct lines. Guess what? No marks went through to the surface. A piece of paper... months after I'd messed up the surface... so obvious... brilliant but slow. Sometimes the obvious isn't. Those marks have been driving me crazy and now that I know I can sew a clean canvas surface and start over protected by a piece of newsprint. YES YES!

Yesterday's sermon was called Clarity of Mind in a World of Confusion and talked about endurance and about how God is more concerned with my holiness than my happiness. It's not that God doesn't want me to be happy; He does but He wants me to be holy more. The verses in Ephesians 2 talked about endurance as being strengthened and able to push through and hold on in the midst of adverse circumstances. LOL - do you think he was talking to me?

I don't like to cook, clean, and grocery shop. So what? I do like to read, write, knit, and sew. And, if I organize things well, I can each day. That ME hour will get me through and it's up to ME to make sure I have that time. Years of stressful happenings, these ridiculous and excessive food allergies, and menopause have made things messy. Right now, working outside the home sounds so big and so impossible. It's all I can do to keep it together here. Working inside the home is well within my ability. These are not my favourite tasks but here is where I need to be. Home is both my healing place and my mission field. God has arranged this answer to so many prayers and I'm complaining. Go figure. Life's like that. We ebb and we flow but can't you just hear God saying - enough now. Goodness girl!

Big breathe in - deep sigh out - WELL..... as I said, it's me that needs the attitude adjustment. I am blessed that Howard has work he enjoys and work that supports our household in a solid although not extravagant way. I'm even blessed to have a budget to figure out. So many are in tougher situations. I'm blessed that I'm able to be home with my son and that I'm not required to care for him 24/7 so that I have breaks from that overwhelming responsibility. I'm blessed that I live in a country where I have access to the types of foods that are healthy for me and am not forced to eat those that aren't or to starve. I am blessed to have a stashed up studio and creative abilities. I am blessed to be going on a sewcation. I am blessed... I am blessed... I am blessed... LOL - I imagine I'll have more cranky days - like I said, life's like that - but today, I'm grateful to have a clean piece of paper clearing up my surface once again and a chance to start over.

In contrast to last week, I had a delightful weekend. On Saturday, all the guys were busy, the house was clean and quiet, we had left overs to eat, and I spent several hours sewing. Such a gift. I have things to show you but first a word of warning. Bad hair ahead. My hairstylist only works Wed, Thurs, and Friday and she's been out of town for three weeks, back today. My hair had grown so much that I wanted a trim before leaving on sewcation Thursday. On Friday, I went for a haircut to an unknown stylist and now have what my youngest son describes as a "not too horrible" hairstyle. I took the scissors to it myself Saturday and was coping better by Sunday but have an emergency call in to Rosemarie and hopefully, once she listens to her answering machine, she can fix my do otherwise, I'll have to make do. Yuck!




This is the Burda 8219 top - as is - straight out of the package. Although the print is partly to blame, you can see that the dolman sleeves are not doing me any favours.




In this image, I've pinned a 1" tuck across the shoulders front and back and pinned the side seams in tighter through the waist and bust with a higher armhole. Better, but still no favours.




This is my T & T pattern, made in the same fabric with an on the shoulder sleeve seam. You can see that this is MUCH better.




And this is my T & T with the Burda 8219 details. Black is hard to photograph so it's tough to see but I transferred the neckline and under bust seam. MUCH more flattering. I left off the Burda 8219 bow. It was ridiculous - like I had floppy bunny ears on my bust. Scrap that idea




The back and the sleeves of the T & T are working well. This pattern has been worth the work to develop. Now, it's fun to play with and I'm getting to know which knit fabrics will have the highest success. This one is a rayon polyester blend.




Here's a close-up of the knot at the front since it's impossible to see in the earlier picture. I bought reams of this fabric on sale for $4.00 a meter. Good thing. My black t-shirts are faded and ready for rags. On Saturday, I went shopping and found only ugly, yucky, unflattering styles, several of which were $40.00 each. A meter and a half - $6.00 each - and I'm glad that I have the fabric to sew a good selection because - LOL - you know how I love black t-shirts.




Knowing what I know now about the dolman sleeve, it seems that another pattern from the Self Imposed Sewing Club is out although I'm not totally giving up yet. I'll look at the waist pieces for the Vogue 1202 top and see if it's possible to combine them with a more flattering upper section with set in sleeves, a higher front neckline, and a low back. I like both the waist shaping of Vogue 1202 and the skirt. We'll see what happens.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - the comfort of community

The ME Hour

Balance: a seven letter word fraught with frustration and something I'm finding incredibly difficult to achieve. Although I'm typing, and have every intention so far of hitting post, it's possibly not be a good idea for me to be writing today. It's a whine. Perhaps some of you can relate and offer advice.

It was two o'clock in the afternoon yesterday before I'd finished buying, repackaging, and putting away the groceries. We shop (actually that should read I shop since I'm the only one there) at two stores and will pay more for less to avoid throwing food away which means I go to Costco for larger bulk items and to Save-On for things that Costco doesn't carry or items I want in smaller quantities.

Last pay period, an astronomical amount of money was spent on groceries - twice the budgeted amount. Now that I'm focusing on making meals (as in cooking them) a priority, I've become more aware of prices. I was amazed at how many had increased in the last two week period. Years ago, a woman in our church who runs a frugal website told me that groceries go up three times a year - at the start of school, at Christmas, and at the start of summer holidays. She said these were the times when the increases could be hidden in a change in shopping patterns. I've paid attention. It's true.




I had lunch on the porch. The days are getting colder and it was most likely the last time it'll be warm enough to enjoy being out there. Across the street, the neighbour's oak tree is showing the beauty of fall colors. It made me both appreciative and sad. Time is flying by so fast. I feel like I can't get my breath and focus and find that sweet spot between the things that need to be done and the things that I want to do. The to do list is never ending long and filled with thankless tasks. While I believe that making a home is important, that isn't helping me to love the actual doing.

Last night, when my son was washing dishes after dinner, he threw out the beef gravy. This morning, when I found out, I burst into tears. You know it wasn't the gravy. It was that tipping point. We've all had them.

Since school started, the only significant time I have spent in my studio has been when Wendy and when Sharon were here to sew - one evening and one day. Instead, I've spent hours and hours and copious amounts of energy focused on the care and keeping of a house and of other people. Housekeeping is a peat and repeat job. It never goes away. Thank God, I'm a minimalist. With the amount of energy it takes to look after this little, I can't imagine looking after more.

This morning, I made chili for dinner. It's now simmering in the crock pot. Chopping up the celery, onions, and peppers, browning the meat, and adding spices, I realized that while I like all the ingredients in this recipe, there is at least one that each of the men in my life do not like. I'm overwhelmed by learning to cook from scratch in order to deal with my allergies, thinking up things to cook each day, cooking them, making them taste like something while keeping in mind each person's preferences, and trying somehow to economize. That in itself is a huge task. I've decided not to cook on Sundays.

And while I know my family loves me, I'm also overwhelmed by how easily these cooking, cleaning, shopping tasks have been assigned to me and how they no longer think about them. You see it in subtle statements like yesterday when my husband asked if he could help me by setting the table. Hello. Since when is setting the table my job and since when does a person need permission to do a task? How did I get to be in charge of who and how and when the table is set? Why wait to be asked? If you see it, do it.

Before writing today, I sat down with a cup of coffee and read through my blog list. While I'm inspired by every one's creativity, I'm turning green. Some women are putting out garment after garment. They've sewn more in a week than I've sewn all summer - and everything they sew seems to fit - and look wonderful - and they're so happy and I'm so crabby. Whine - whine - whine - whine - whine - whine - whine - VBG!

School started on the 7th. Today is the 17th. It's only been ten days and already I'm completely drained of energy. While attempting to make everyone else's life easier, my own gas tank hasn't been filled. The things that I want to do, like write the blog in a timely manner, and the things that I need to do for my own sanity, like be creative each day, are not happening with necessary regularity. Next week, I'm starting the ME hour. Over the weekend, I'll figure out when to slot it in but I want at least one hour each day in my studio. It's essential. I don't just want to sew, I need to sew or I'll go crazy.

Yesterday afternoon, a friend phoned. She was having a really down day and needed some company so I went and knit with her for a few hours in the afternoon. Later, during news commercials, I managed to find enough time to cut out the Burda 8219 top. Luckily, the TV is in the family room next to my studio but running back and forth was not stress-less sewing.

Because I'm testing both the style and the pattern, I used the same leopard print fabric that I made a top from earlier this summer. There was just enough left however, because of the shape of the pattern pieces, the "stripes" are horizontal rather than vertical. I attempted to arrange them in helpful positions. Hopefully the lighter portions across the bust and the darker ones across the waist will make one look larger and the other smaller - in theory - we'll see.

I want to finish this top as well as two muslins. Next Thursday, I leave for a three day Ron Collins workshop. I am really looking foward to three days sewing with other creative women and no responsibilities. YES YES! Have a great weekend. I promise to be more cheerful on Monday.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - sewcations

Plain Vanilla

Learning to sew bras is both challenging and fun. I'm still working on the basics and haven't made it to the really fancy ones yet. That's okay. It's like learning to fit any other garment. There's an order to things as I talked about in an earlier posting - the cup, the band, and the bridge - and then tweaking.

The first bra that I made for myself fit quite well. I had to work a little harder with the ready to wear copy but that was okay. It worked out. The first bra I sewed for my daughter and the one my friend Caroline made for herself also worked out well. Yes, they needed fine tuning but that's to be expected as there are pattern issues and fabric factors for sewing bras just as with other garments. Go figure.




Sharon said that even if her bra didn't fit, she was thrilled with everything she'd learned and was looking forward to learning more BUT... it did fit. We have some changes to the band and the bridge for next time but nothing major. The cup fit quite well right away. YES YES. It was a really fun day together.

While Sharon sewed her bra, I made another one for my daughter Jessica. It's a plain vanilla bra, nothing special, just a little lace along the cup. The first bra I made her was stretch taffeta and the second one was lace with absolutely no stretch whatsoever. Those were not good choices for perfecting fit. This time, I used the basic Simplex fabric and the same Kwik Sew 2374 pattern with some fine tuning.




As I've said before, The Bra-maker's Manual from BraMaker's Supply is an excellent resource if you can get through the horrible editing. On larger cup sizes, the bridge often sits away from the body. The solution is shown above - a wedge. Using this method, I added an extra inch to Jessica's pattern.




Another change was to curve the band to prevent it from rolling at the back. You can see the illustration above and the marked adjustment below. The book is full of all sorts of tips like this as well as information on how to turn a basic pattern into different styles.




Here's how the adjustment looked on the band. That edge then gets finished with the band elastic and makes a gradual curve from the outer edge of the cup to the back clasp. It worked quite well. I'll be interested to see how it fits once I mail the bra to my daughter.

Notice the band fabric? It's from SewSassy.com and - IMHO - is not nearly as nice as the band fabric from BraMaker's Supply. I've read a few postings on Bra Maker's blog and they seem to put a lot of research into quality products. I know that everything that I've used from them so far has worked really well while not everything from other sources has been as wonderful. I'm learning which parts and pieces to order from where and to avoid big orders from SewSassy in order to avoid big duty charges. Both times I ordered from them the border was an issue.

I'll use the SewSassy band fabric for bras with stretch lace so that the band can be covered although - to be fair - it doesn't look nearly as bad sewn up. I've used the black in one of my bras and the white in another and it wears quite well. It's also the same fabric used in my ready to wear bra. It's just not as nice as BraMaker's band fabric.




Here's Jessica's finished bra. I'll mail it to her asap and get feedback on the fit. If it's good, I'll use this pattern for fabrics with some stretch. If it's not good, I'll keep fine tuning. Once that's done, I plan to work on lace bras some more. I sent the earlier photographs of Jessica wearing the green lace bra to the instructor who taught the workshop that I took. She said the fit was quite good already and suggested with non-stretch fabrics to go up a cup size and then shave 1/4" off of the top curve of the lower cup piece to avoid a pointy look. I can see how that might work for both Jessica and myself.

Karen you made me laugh when you said "I love it when you get philosophical about your life and your goals." I'm sure my kids roll their eyes and go please, no more self-help only, I can't really help it. It's how I think, a part of my way of being.

Thanks Alison for the link to the video. I looked up the lyrics to For A Dancer. Some words to ponder. I'm not sure we'll always know the whole reason why we're here but I believe we'll know parts. As a wife, a mother, a friend, there are ways to do a better or a worse job. What I don't know - and will never know - are the ripples, where they go, how far they extend out into the world, how many lives they touch. All I can do is make them as positive as possible.

I got the giggles when I said that "I've done nothing" bit too K-Line. This big long list of stuff done and in my eyes, nothing. So nutty. I'm glad it helped you inject some reality. YES YES. A ripple.

What a FABULOUS idea Lorrie to put our relationships on a list and check them off. Did I talk to _____ today? About what? Was it meaningful? How could it be more meaningful? Was I demanding and discouraging or supporting and encouraging? Hmm... I wonder how listing would change our interactions with our spouse, our children, our friends. I wonder what gaps we would notice that could be filled simply because of that spotlight of attention. OH OH - something to think about between now and our coffee next Thursday. I'm looking forward to it.

For the past several summers, Kyle has worked at bible camp and one of the things he really looked forward to was me cleaning his room. I think it reaches an overwhelming stage and then he doesn't know what to do to stay on top of things. He's a keeper. I worry about his hoarding tendencies so I'm happy to dig him out from under at periodic intervals.

This year, he didn't work at camp and between all that was going on, I didn't get around to cleaning his room until yesterday. It took six hours. Everything is sorted and shiny clean now. His posters are protected in frames and the duvet is covered. I gave up on the top sheet, blanket, and quilt. Apparently those don't work well for him. It's too much work to make the bed and I want the bed made. Earlier this spring, I bought both Kyle and Aryck duvets and yesterday found quite nice covers on sale. Personally, I don't like the puffy look of a duvet. I prefer a heavily quilted quilt but... with a duvet the bed is made better. This is good.

Grocery shopping this morning and then - some sewing time. I hope. Seems like I hardly ever see my studio anymore. This being domestic stuff is hard work - LOL.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - a shiny clean room