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Thursday 30 June 2011

What Was I Thinking?

It's finished and that's about as good as it gets. I love the color and the fabric and hate everything else about it. As sdBev wrote - somehow the front darts and high neckline look strangling or something. That's how it feels on too, contained and prissy which makes me wonder what was I thinking? Perhaps...




... I wasn't thinking at all and that's the problem. Perhaps I was simply reacting to the image and whatever connotation that look has in my brain. For some reason, I'm attracted to this particular look but put it on and YUCK.




Remember the Kwik Sew 3691 pattern I bought not that long ago. Same sort of idea. I have several other patterns in stash that are similar. Why? Now that I think about it, I never wear turtle necks for that some strangling feeling and I bought a RTW tank with this high neckline and have barely worn it. Along with fitted waist and no dolmen sleeves, a high neckline is another item for my NOT list as is...




... high waisted anything. I'm just under 5'4" which puts me in petite sizing however, my distribution of length is not on the petite plan. I'm short waisted and have longer legs. Just because I like them - just because I love that long, lean, slim, thin look - does not mean these pants will look good on my body. To achieve sewing bliss, there has to be a match between body and pattern and fabric otherwise you're headed for another wadder. If I'd sewn these pants, the top would have come right up to my bra band. NOT the look I was going for.




Since I wanted to start sewing them yesterday, I pulled out all the possibilities and then looked on-line to see if the patterns were still in print. This Vogue 2988 wardrobe pattern was the only current pant pattern I had that worked so I pulled out the pieces and started on them. This is a surprise pattern. The pants are completely different than anything I've sewn before and going quite wonderful. I'll tell you about them tomorrow when I'm finished and have some pictures.

In-between sewing the top and the pants, I went shopping. Three stores. Two dozen pairs of pants. Two hours later. One frustrated Myrna. And the results - a pair of pants that will work IF the back crotch is scooped some more and the hem taken down. As I described yesterday, the petite pants fit through the crotch but aren't long enough while regular length pants are too long in the crotch and the leg.

With a T & T pattern, two hours is enough time to sew your own pants and save the frustration of shopping. I think that's why I keep waffling between buying or sewing the basics because I have this same frustration with virtually every garment I buy other than knit tops and even then I need the petite ones or the armhole is too big. That explains why knit is all I lived in for years.

Amy wrote (way back when) - I want to thank you for this little series you are doing on skirts for a "hippy-er" kind of gal. My BFF told me that if it wasn't for my but and hips, I"d be considered skinny. Anyway, I've been struggling with what kind/style of skirts would look best on my figure. I've gleaned many ideas from your posts. Thanks again. Any chance you can think of a dress for a hippy figure made with a border print.

You might not need this any more Amy since it took me forever to answer but the answer is two part - not a pattern number. For your figure, you need a dress with multiple seams or darts with seams being easier to work with. For the border print, you need a dress with a straight bottom in order to cut the print. Most likely, that means a darted style. Look less at the pictures and more at the line drawings in the pattern books and it'll help you find the right one.

BJ in Texas wrote - Why not sell some of your fabric? You could box it - let's say 4 lbs of fabric - and sell it for X amount of dollars....

Your comment arrived right after my husband and I had been talking about clearing out my stash. I thought I'd warn him that I was getting rid of a LOT of fabric this time so he didn't panic when it was piled up in the family room.

Selling excess stash is a great idea but not too practical since I live in Canada. Our postal rates are REALLY high. They are based on size and weight and destination. To mail a four pound package across the country never mind to another country would easily cost over twenty dollars. I've occasionally mailed fabric to my friend in Yellowknife (Northern Canada) but otherwise I avoid it as much as possible.

I thought about fabric and patterns and choices yesterday while I was sewing and especially about taking more time to make decisions. I was in a hurry when I chose this month's work project and the top pattern and the original top fabric were both inappropriate for me as was the pant pattern. The new pant pattern will work only it was a lot more effort than it should have been. In the future, I want to take more time. My NOT list for pattern shopping has proved quite helpful. It's not long but the items on it allow me to make more mindful decisions. I'm going to start a similar list for fabric choices. Do you have a list? How does it work for you?

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - listening to my intuition and changing pant patterns has resulted in finding a pattern that just might work really well for my figure. YES YES

Wednesday 29 June 2011

Relax And Have Fun

We've been prepping for inventory at work (Fabricland) for the past few weeks. By the end of this week, all the tables will be laid down - that means stacking each fabric by name - and early next week, we'll start weighing and recording everything. It's a HUGE job.

Yesterday, I worked on the Bargain Center. I touched every single bolt of fabric in there and NOT ONE intrigued me. LOL - I'm not sure whether this is good or bad. Since starting work in January, I've bought way less fabric. Considering the state of my stash, that part is good.




You can't see my outfit in this picture but you can see how long the store is. In front of the picture, are the offices, washrooms, staff room, and the storage and receiving room. Just getting from front to back of the store is an exercise program never mind putting bolts back. One day, I'll remember to strap on a pedometer and see how much I actually travel.




badmomgoodmom wrote - My only quibble is that I should have added width to the sleeve when I added length. YMMV, but I found the pattern went together well and was a quick sew.

What does YMMV stand for? It's not coming to me. This draft was the first sleeve with the ruffles. It uses the fourteen sleeve cap and the eighteen bicep width otherwise it would have been way too snug. Then... as you can see... I shortened the sleeve cap for my petite adjustment and then altered it for my tipped shoulder. Later, when I changed views, I used the same cap and width but made the plain sleeve, adding length, and straightening the hem. That curved angle makes my biceps look wider. Straight seems to be more flattering.

Lorrie wrote - I like the yellow version of the pattern. When you said you were going to make the ruffled sleeve version, the first thing I thought of was - what a way to make me look wider across the bust.

LOL - on me, that wouldn't have been such a bad thing. I'm certainly not over endowed.




I plan to finish this top today. Before I do more work on the collar, I'll sew in the sleeves and finish the side seams to make sure everything hangs exactly right. Then, I can determine what changes to make to the collar band which as you can see is too big. When I adjusted the armhole, it changed the neckline and even though I retraced the original shape, it's not quite exactly the same. The band is meant to lay flat.

For three different versions of this Vogue 8392 top, check here and here and here. Same pattern. Different results. Isn't that fun and illustrates one of the reasons I sew - to get what I want, in the color I want, fitting me. Although I loved the color of Erica's version and everything looks good on her, in the end I'm more attracted to the simpler versions and love the idea of sewing the pattern out of a knit. For a work project, I can't make any style changes as the projects are meant as advertising.

Carolyn wrote - I've been reading along on your journey but haven't commented lately. I think it's interesting to watch you go through this process. I second Clio's comments about buying the basics. I can't remember the last time I made a t-shirt or a basic tank top. My sewing time is limited and I want to get the most enjoyment from it so I only sew the major things... pants, skirts, and dresses!

LOL - watching is probably more fun than going through it. Sometimes, I feel like such a case especially when I keep circling back to the same topic. That said, we each have a topic that intrigues us and encouraging people (myself and others) to be fully who they are has been a constant interest in my life for years emerging in different formats.

It takes at least three hours to clean the Bargain Center at work so I had lots of time to think about buying clothes versus sewing them yesterday. Fit is a huge issue. When I adjust my patterns, I take out 1" through the armhole and 1" through the crotch depth to adjust for petite proportions. Those kinds of alterations are hard to do to RTW although I've recently discovered that petite t-shirts fit fairly well. Unfortunately, there's not a lot of choice in town.

I'm short waisted so my legs are longer than the petite format although the crotch depth is perfect. Unless they are a long style, the petite pants are too short which again means there isn't much selection BUT... possibly... I could find a few skirts or capris that might work.

The frustration of fit is one big reasons why I sew but I can see that I'll need to do something to get ahead of the game. I also debated whether I should start sewing fall clothes now - VBG - since we don't seem to be getting summer anyway only... I'm debating an exercise program and that would change my measurements so I'm not sure yet. There's always something.

Yesterday, on Inside Out Style, Imogen interviewed Jacqueline Peros. When I saw Jacqueline's picture, my first thought was I like that sweater. Later in the interview, in response to the question what is the secret to great style, Jacqueline said, I think it (is) about how you present your uniqueness which is done by understanding your personality. It's interpreting a trend or even a classic with a twist that can only be owned by you. She then described her personal style as a mix of modern classics with a touch of drama. It made me think again about trying too hard, about being too familiar with my own style so as to find it boring when it's not really, and about the need to simply take those basic shapes that I know I like and look good on me and have fun with them - like Carolyn does with her T & T dresses. To RELAX and HAVE FUN.

Carolyn also wrote - Finally, your fabric collection. Definitely purge from it what you don't like... but you will only replace it with things that are more you now. I know because I went through this exercise 6 years ago when I moved to this apt. Now my fabric collection is twice the size it was before - but it's all me at this stage of my life now.

In February, I gave away a LOT of fabric and there is still TONNES left. It's oozing all over the place, out of its allotted space. I can't find what I'm looking for. I can't remember what I have. That doesn't work for me.

Every year, I sort through my fabric at least twice but somehow, the amount of fabric there has grown unreasonably big. Perhaps, I had newbie eyes and bought every good deal in sight when I returned to fashion sewing even though I was only returning to as opposed to just starting. Whatever the reason, in order to get the stash down to what I consider a workable size, I may need to get rid of "good" pieces and well as "bad" ones... and that's okay.... if I can do it. I'll donate the fabric and that helps. I always feel it's better if someone else has the opportunity to do something with it rather than it sitting here doing nothing.

Today, I'm sewing. Possibly tomorrow as well although I want to go to that clothing store I mentioned and I absolutely have to do some weeding so... who knows. Next week's schedule was up yesterday and I'm working a lot of hours especially at the beginning of the week. We have two weeks to sew the work projects so this one - top and pants - needs to be done by Monday. Hopefully the pants work out much better than the top has and are a quick sew.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - sewing today

Tuesday 28 June 2011

The Pending Potential Of My Stash

Have you ever had a favorite outfit that you've worn over and over and then put it on one morning only to look in the mirror and ask yourself what was I thinking? I can remember numerous experiences like that over the years. I'm intrigued by how as we evolve some things change and some things remain the same. No matter what I am somewhat vain, my hair is important, I love panty hose, and would opt to wear high heels if possible. Throw in some big, multi pieced, piece of jewelry and I'm really happy.

Kathie wrote - I do have a question, however. I've noticed that you typically wear very dark hose and wonder if perhaps it's the way they photograph (as pretty much opaque) or if there is a specific reason you wear such a dark color even with your warm season clothing.

That's certainly a frustrating element of the Internet - that what I see and what you see and what is truly reality differs monitor to monitor. Most likely, they are photographing darker although I tend to wear light tights in winter which would be opaque but not thick and lighter pantyhose in summer. I wore that outfit Sunday and the temperature was winter-ish which meant these were the only appropriate pantyhose in my drawer. I need to re-stock and particularly in skin tone. The only "nude" color I had looked like a really bad, sprayed on tan. NOT.

Pantyhose are an interesting discussion. Some women would never wear them and some - like myself - would always wear them. If I'm wearing a longer skirt, I will go with bare legs however, if I'm wearing a shorter skirt, I prefer to wear panty hose because of varicose veins. I also like the suck me in and smooth me out aspect of control tops and especially love the new high waisted pantyhose that come right to your bra band. They smooth everything out only they're not at all practical in hot summer weather which is why I tend to wear longer skirts in summer and shorter ones in winter.

Clio wrote - My eyes are bigger, too. So, to enable me to spend more time on the creative/unique projects, I've basically stopped sewing basics and started taking any RTW alterations to a seamstress rather than doing any hemming, etc myself.

I have such trouble finding RTW that works for me that I'm not sure how doable this suggestion is HOWEVER - I'm giving it a LOT of thought. I don't particularly like shopping but this sounds like a plan that could work even for the short term to get me over the hurdle until the point where I'm better balanced in terms of sewing wants and sewing needs. Thanks.

Mel wrote - ... Funny about the skirt comment... I was just idly thinking that while the Friday skirt was cute and I liked it, I ADORE this purple one on you. Somehow the scale is wrong between the top and the floaty skirt... I also think the scale is wrong between the black belt and the skirt.... Perhaps different shoes... The top is bright and cheerful and demands something that shows it off versus being worn to "go with the skirt".

There was a LOT more to Mel's comment so please go back and read the whole thing to know what all she said and what I'm responding too.

Yesterday's outfit gives me more shape than Friday's. You're right that different shoes would have been a better choice. Unfortunately, I was on the way to work and those cement floors and eight hour shifts don't let me wear the heels I love. I've spent the last six months since starting work attempting to find comfortable and fashionable shoes. It's a journey.

The feedback on the proportions and the style/color was very interesting. I appreciated it. In real life, you may have had a different impression as the color of the t-shirt and the color in the skirt match perfectly and the t-shirt is a light-weight rayon blend. It must look heavier in the photo than it actually is.

My goal with the bright top and darker bottom was to bring the eyes up toward my face and minimize my hips. I didn't realize until I looked at the pictures again how much the belt was cutting the look. Without it and with higher shoes, the proportions would have been better and the outfit would have come across differently. PLUS if the skirt was smaller and actually hugged my frame.

I've worn long floaty skirts for YEARS. It's only recently that I've started to wear shorter, fitted skirts. In fact, I was surprised by how many I've had to photograph over the past few weeks. The only thing frustrating with this fitted style is my fluctuating waist. I'm still trying to figure that out as I started sewing shorter fitted styles about the same time that I gave up on dieting and began to enjoy my curvy figure. Since then I've lost weight and gained some back and could stand to lose a bit more but it's not bothering me like it used to. I just want to dress my body to it's best advantage AND sew clothes that are fun. Isn't it fabulous that sewing gives us that option?

Corinne wrote - Like most of us in middle age, I found myself at a cross-roads as well. Transition times leave us with many more questions than answers. I always felt that by the time I reached this age I would have most things figured out. I would be able to define things as black and white. Guess what? Everything is gray. Really.

Yes. I know what you mean. One friend emailed me privately and said that she thought I was trying to put myself into too small a box. On one hand, I disagree because I know what I'm yearning for. On the other, I think she's right. While I might feel my wardrobe is boring and doesn't reflect me, I also know that I have a really good grasp of what I like and am drawn to and that I simply need to move in that direction combining complimentary styles with gorgeous fabrics and texture and detail and visual interest to make those shapes more interesting. OH... and I could use a few more sewing hours in each day and a million more bucks in my bank account.




Sewing Vogue 8392 has been another opportunity to ask myself what was I thinking. I started out making the white view with the three ruffles. Really? Big ruffles like these are so not me. All I can think is that I wanted something challenging and different that would intrigue the customers at work. HOWEVER...




... the fabric was a nightmare. When I stitched the side seam, it shrank an inch. In order to maintain the length, I had to pin the seam to, and stitch through, tissue paper and then pull the paper out which required a short stitch length. Four times for the side seams. Four times for the shoulder seams. Because I sewed French seams. The fabric kept shrinking and skewing. I abandoned the project when neither the rolled hem on the serger nor tissue and the sewing machine could make the hems of the ruffles look decent. At that point, I knew I couldn't honestly recommend the fabric to a customer anyway so...




... I switched to sewing the yellow view out of the silk noil in my stash. There's still a huge bolt of this at the store so it's a doable choice for an alternative project fabric. That said, I have a feeling that I'll get the finished top on and hate it even though I love the fabric. Now that I've taken two steps back, the style doesn't feel vintage-y wonderful, it feels prissy contained. It'll be interesting to see if I can pull it of when it's finished.

The horrible original fabric and how much I love silk noil led to my intention to ruthlessly purge my stash some time soon. I've been aware that it's too big for quite a while - too big as in overwhelmingly big and preventing me from accomplishing. I wasn't sure how to downsize but now... anything floaty see through, anything hugely polyester, anything not really me is going to go until all that's left is room to breathe and a lot of excitement over the pending potential of my stash. YES YES

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - feedback and compliments. THANK YOU!

Monday 27 June 2011

Sewng Eyes Sewing Tummy

There was wind and rain, thunder and lightening, and all sorts of "interesting" weather on the drive out to camp Friday. Oh well. Kyle and I had a good chat on the way and lunch together before I dropped him off. He was excited. I missed him right away although I did console myself with a stop at Crazy River Clothing in Salmon Arm, one of my favourite dress shops. The clothes have amazing details, gorgeous fabrics, and VERY high price tags.




One absolutely yummy top was made out of a wrinkled knit. It came in black or white. I have the exact same fabric in my stash in a dusty pink. After leaving, I wished that I'd tried the top on. I've thought about it so much that I've decided to make it part of my "birthday" celebration which has been put off for way too long already considering my birthday was at the beginning of the month.

The celebration will be two part. The first day, I'll go back to the store to try on all sorts of clothes that interest me and the second day, I'll sew my interpretation of either that top or another garment that catches my eye. If all goes well with my project for work, I may go this Thursday and then sew next week. That will give me time to plan and design in-between.




Saturday, I was having a conversation with my daughter and mentioned how frustrated I was by the length of time in which I've been saying the same thing - that my clothes don't seem to truly represent me. It's a topic that's been mentioned on the blog a few times. Right now, my jewelry is far more exciting than my clothing. She noted that the five tops I just made were rather boring. Yes. They are. And they were made to go with other, more colorful, skirts however... that said... I don't really have other, more colorful, skirts.




With the way my weight has fluctuated over the years, with being self employed from home for twenty years wearing jeans, with only returning to fashion sewing barely two years ago, it seems like I never get through sewing the basics and onto the unusual and more creative things. I imagine there's a bit of something subconscious holding me back as well, some thing that is a fear of some kind because all stumbling blocks can be traced back to fear and specifically to the fear of rejection.




I was thinking the other day about how my sewing eyes are bigger than my sewing tummy. I have ideas galore and yet too often I'm sitting on the couch reading a book instead of at the machine stitching. I need - want - to sew more and I need - want - to somehow alternate the basics with the creative and the ambitious. I certainly have enough patterns and fabrics and ideas.




Pyjama pants are not at all ambitious or creative and yet the rhythm of putting them together is immensely satisfying and provides plenty of time to think. These are one pair each for each of my sons. While making them, I thought a lot about sewing and my style and what's holding me back and the brevity of life and turning fifty next year and when will I actually get to it. In the end, I wrote someone whose sense of style I greatly admire and asked if she'd mentor me in some way. I'm not sure what that would look like but I think there's the potential for both of us to have fun while I find a way to transition... somehow... I hope... we'll see.

If I were to have a fashion mentor, one aspect that would be really important to me would be honest and kind critique. About the skirt that I showed on Friday, Alexandra wrote - It is a pretty skirt. Your other skirts are more flattering, IMHO. I thought that was an incredibly nice way of saying the skirt didn't look the greatest on me. The comment was MUCH appreciated although it's only fair to the skirt to mention that it was bought plus thirty pounds ago so the only thing holding it up is the elastic. Normally, I'm ruthless about getting rid of clothes that don't fit. That skirt and the four others like it have gone in and out of my recycling basket. First I say I'm not going to wear them and then I need something quick and easy and they come back out again. Now - with this feedback - I'll be moving them along permanently, which leaves me with even less to wear and more push to sew. LOL - I certainly have enough fabric and...

... even more now. After Crazy River Clothing, I also stopped at the Salmon Arm Fabricland to check out their bargain section and picked up a rayon/linen print and a rayon/wool plaid both in shades of grey. They're vastly different looks and don't go together. They were also vastly reduced in price and are now washed, dried, and in stash while I think about what they might become. My stash is ready for a ruthless purge - for a very specific reason. I'll tell you more about that tomorrow. I'm working today, hopefully sewing tonight.

The top in these photos is the speckled t-shirt from the five I just sewed worn with Vogue 7937 sewn from a heavier knit. This skirt style is one of my favourites. It feels fun and flirty. I was being brave and trying something different with the belt. What do you think?

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - the ability to ask even when the answer might be no. It might also be yes. If you ask and the answer is yes, you are where you want to be. If you ask and the answer is no, you are where you started and can plan a new path. Nothing is lost.

Friday 24 June 2011

Same Style Different Print

Work was extremely busy yesterday however, there was also a lot of staff on. At some points we were tripping over each other and trying to find things to do since five people cannot cut at a two people table unless the third customer only wants trims cut - not drapery rolls. The evening looked like it was going to be just as busy when I left at 5:30 with less staff. That should work better.



I didn't wear this skirt. I wore one with the same style different print. I bought five of these skirts when I was in Portland quite a few years ago. They were on sale for $4.99 - less than the cost of the fabric.




The floaty upper layer is cut on the bias. Normally that doesn't work for me however, the underneath layer is a lining cut on the straight of grain with a flounce added to the bottom. The lining keeps the bias skirt from hugging every bump and curve. I get a lot of compliments when I wear these skirts only I'm not sure if they're for the pretty skirt or how I look in it. It's typically a "love your skirt" type comment. If I were sewing them, I'd take in the side seams at the knee section slightly to give more shape.




Erica B sewed this Vogue 8392 top back in 2008 when it was - most likely - a new pattern. I loved her version and - since it's still in the books - decided to use it for the top of my June project at work. I intended to pair it with...




... the pants from Simplicity 2654 for a slightly vintage look only I read - with surprise - on Roobeedoo's blog yesterday that the pattern was out of print. Simplicity's website hadn't noted that as Vogue's does so I'd assumed - wrongly - that it was okay. We have to sew current patterns at work so...




... I switched to the pants from Vogue 8717 that have a similar feel. The bottoms look like they're cuffed in the picture. They're not. It's illustrating a machine stitched hem. I also like the jacket on this pattern. I may use it for a future project.




The fabrics are from a series called The Piano Keys, not that that means anything. The print for the blouse is similar to a burnout. You can see through it in parts. The pant fabric is very deceptive. It looks like denim in this photo when it's quite floaty but weighted, like a double fabric, hard to describe. The back is actually gold. Both are 100% polyester. Once I finish the other pair of flannel pants for Aryck and the pair for Kyle, I'll start on these. Sunday maybe.

Kyle is so excited to get going that he has the car packed already. I'd planned to leave closer to noon and time the return trip to get back in time to go straight to work at five. He's planning to leave the minute he wakes up. I imagine it'll be some kind of compromise in the middle with me being nagged out the door. Too funny. Have a great weekend.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - free projects at work. YES YES

Thursday 23 June 2011

Results Will Vary

Yesterday must have been summer - LOL - as it's raining this morning. Oh the weird weather we're having. I won't complain. It could be worse and... my iris are out. The first couple years they were in this spot beside the porch, they didn't bloom well. It's more sheltered than I anticipated. This year, there are lots of tall stems and bright blooms. It's quite lovely.




Why, when the room was flooded with sunlight, are these pictures dark? Why, when I used a tripod, are some of them blurry? All so very strange but - hopefully - somewhat of an example of how the fabric factor affects end results.




All five t-shirts were cut from the exact same pattern and sewn using the exact same order and methods. All I know about the fabrics is that they are all a rayon blend. As you can see, results vary.




Print fabrics are more forgiving of the lumps and bumps - more camouflaging. The favourite t-shirt whose fabric I'm attempting to duplicate is a paisley print. I opted for (mostly) solid fabrics so I could sew brighter print skirts.




This dark green is my favourite in terms of feel and fit. It's a slightly thicker fabric and seems to skim rather than cling. I think it has a percentage of cotton.




The pink is my favourite in terms of color. You saw it the other day with the plaid skirt. I have a picture of the teal one with another skirt style to show you tomorrow.




The pink and the teal t-shirts are the same fabric. This blue one is different and the results are less clingy. It's a gorgeous color as well. I wish I had purchased a purple only there wasn't one at the time. I'd like it to go with a floral print in stash. There may be one now. I'll look - if I have time. We're having a huge, one day only, birthday bash sale at work today to celebrate Canada Day... quite early... it's on July 1st. The actual day is a Friday. I think the reasoning is that people will leave on their holiday the night before so this is the last Thursday that works to hold the sale. That's just my guess.

ANYWAY... what I was hoping to illustrate with these (not so fabulous) images was how the same pattern looks in different fabrics, even fabrics that are all a rayon blend. The results show why when you are working out a particular fitting problem, you need to use the same fabric over and over and why when you test with muslin and then sew the final garment with "real" fabric, results vary. Each garment needs its own fine tuning.

I'm working eight hours today and then running around after work to help Kyle pick up whatever is on his list after he packs. Hopefully he has a list when I get home and we get it done because we're leaving in the morning and I have a feeling I'll be tired tonight. Oh well - life's like that. Saturday, I intend to sleep in and move slow.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - contrast that cause appreciation

Wednesday 22 June 2011

The Last Last Day

Kyle and I are going out for breakfast this morning before I drop him off at school to write his English exam. Since today is the last last day of school in our home, it's our last chance for a "school meal". After twenty-one years, we are finished with school. I'm tap dancing. Pass me my cap and gown. I AM (so) DONE !!!!!




On Friday, I'm driving him about an hour and a half out of town to work at a summer camp as a counselor for kids age 8-16. All of my children attended and then worked at this particular camp so I've been driving back and forth for the seventeen years. This may be my last year as I imagine if Kyle goes again, he'll be driving his own car. Right now, he doesn't have a driver's license. He will stay three weeks, come home for two, go back for another three, and after that, he plans to work for a year while he decides what's next.

For years, I thought of this last last day as the day that I could make a shift in my own life only I made it in January when I opted to take a job. It's been a good decision. I'm really enjoying both working and where I work. When I started, I decided that I was going to like everyone, that life was just too short for politics. That has been a good choice.

The end of Monday's saga at work was starting Aryck's pyjama pants only to discover that there wasn't enough of one of the fabrics. It was short by about 8". So (sew) frustrating. The Buy 1 Get 1 Free sale was on until today so yesterday I picked up two more flannel pieces, one for Aryck and one for Kyle. I wanted two pieces for Kyle only there wasn't a third choice that I liked. After inventory, there will be new stock and eventually, it'll be on sale and I'll get something else then.

Pyjama pants are the only thing I sew for my boys. I follow the same order of sewing every time so that I'm mostly sewing in the flat. It also makes hemming and inserting the waist elastic easier. I use 1" non-roll waistband elastic in black or white, whichever works for the fabric. In case you're interested, here's the order...

1. Sew and serge finish the in-seams
2. Re-enforce the in-seams with top stitching 1/8" from the seam line
3. Sew and serge finish the crotch seam
4. Re-enforce the crotch seam with top stitching 1/8" from the seam line
5. Serge finish the hem edges and the waist edges
6. Press up the hems 1 1/4"
7. Press down the waist 1 1/2"
8. Open the pressed edges, sew and serge finish the side seams.
9. Press the side seams in the same direction.
10. Fold up and top stitch the hems in place.
11. Fold down and top stitch the waist casing in place leaving a 2" opening.
12. Mark and insert elastic as described below.
13. Insert back marker.
14. Sew opening closed. DONE!




The back marker is a piece of colorful ribbon sewn into the stitching for the waist casing. It's easier to see something contrasting although in the past - when I didn't have anything else - I've used a scrap of the fabric. It doesn't really matter. The boys just like to have some way of identifying the front from the back since I don't bother sewing a fly front.




Before I insert the elastic, I push a pin through each end from top to bottom. That way if I'm overzealous and pull the other end back into the casing, I'll have another pin to carry it back the other way with. When I insert the elastic, I go in the direction the seam allowances are pressed so that I'm not hitting any of the edges and the elastic inserts easily. I also mark the "top" with a felt pen so that...




... when the ends emerge from the waist casing, I can easily tell if they are twisted and know that the colored markers are going to be placed one over the other and stitched together. It saves a lot of hardship.




Aryck's last pair of pyjamas totally ripped to shreds through the crotch and across the leg. It wasn't the seam. The fabric had simply had enough and gave up. HOWEVER... just in case... that's why I re-enforce the seams.




Kyle loves purple and plaid. He bought this shirt for $5.00 at Wal-Mart on a year end clearance only the sleeves were long. Since it's summer, he asked me to shorten them. On one, the plaid ran around nicely and I could cut on the line. On the other, it was skewed and I had to measure carefully. It's done and he can take it to camp with him.

After breakfast, I'm having coffee with Lorri, the lady who cooked twice a week for us for the past few months. Last Thursday was her last day. At coffee, we will talk about how it went, what our family liked, and what we'd like done differently so she can think about it over the summer and decide if she'd like to cook for us again the fall. If so, I imagine we'll be happy to have her since we've really missed her this week already. Monday, when I got home, there was no meal waiting. Same thing tomorrow. Darn.

AND THEN... the t-shirt pictures. AND THEN... sewing.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - the last last day of school

Tuesday 21 June 2011

The Last Three

I feel apart at work yesterday. Since those 3 1/2" heels were a little unreasonable to work in, I wore some cute little flats - which then tore up the back of my left heel. I was in the staff washroom, getting a bandaid, when a "gentleman" kept calling me. When I came out, bandaid in hand, he said he needed a particular kind of fabric and there was no-one to help him to which I replied, you passed quite a few people on the way back here.

He then began to complain about how this or that person wouldn't help him. The cashier, the woman at that cutting table, and so on. Hmm... apparently they were to drop all and run, abandon till and customer. Realizing he'd go on and on, I asked what fabric were you looking for which didn't stop the recitation so I asked again to which he replied forget it, I'm leaving, I don't like the service.

It was one of those bite your tongue moments or I'd have said something about not liking some customers. Wow. You've got to wonder at the attitudes that some people go through life with. It must be quite a burden carrying that much anger around. SO...




... continuing the story, he left, I put the bandaid on, and then at lunch changed shoes to some kitten heels I've worn before. Both big toes were poking out leaving three holes in my relatively new nylons. We have new stress mats at work. They have holes in them. Holes the exact size to trap my heel. After that, I'd move and the mat would come with me. Bending down once to set myself free, the wire on the right bra cup poked through and then another time, the wire on the left bra cup.




AND THEN... I was wearing one of those shaper type slips with the gripping strip at the bottom. All it did was walk its way up my thighs ending up at crotch level. NOT too effective. It was rather quite funny and for the most part hidden. As one of my co-worker's said - you still look good.




I finished the last three t-shirts on the weekend. I was determined to move on to other projects. I don't know the exact content of each fabric although I do know they're all rayon blends because I was trying to find a fabric like my favourite RTW t-shirt which is 98% rayon and 2% lycra. The pattern is exactly the same t-shirt to t-shirt. The results are vastly different. It's an experiment in the fabric factor. You saw the pink one on me yesterday. I'll get pictures of the others on me as well so you can see what a difference the fabric makes.




Friday's bread trip was another interesting experiment. My friend Sharon came with me and we stopped at another friend's for lunch - intending to have fresh bread - only that didn't go quite the way we'd planned. The bread is baked in tins. Small tins. As you can see, the straight section of the bread is a mere 3 1/2" which made for seven 1/2" slices including the bottom crust.




The first loaf - the one that we tried to eat at Lorraine's - was hallow in the middle. The baker thought she might have hit it too hard to loosen it from the can so she'd warned me in advance and given me a free mix for a future loaf. Normally, I'd have declined to buy that loaf - especially at $5.50 each - only she'd gone out of her way to bake for me on what was normally her day off so I didn't feel I had that option. The bread was okay. It left an aftertaste and made me itchy. Checking the mix later, we discovered that it contained corn starch so that didn't work. If I'm going to eat bread that contains something I shouldn't have, there's a pre-made brand called Udi that I can buy right in town that tastes fairly good.




The trip wasn't a total loss though. We went to Fabricland first where we shopped and visited with a friend who works there. Luckily, she was just about to go for coffee. This store has Kwik Sew patterns which we don't so I bought 3691 above for the pink top and 3156 below for the pants which looked much better in the sewn image. After that, we had a fun lunch with Lorraine and on the way home stopped at an incredibly inexpensive, with lots of variety, bulk food store that we'll most likely go to again. All good.





I thought Kyle had an exam this morning but apparently it's this afternoon which messes up my schedule however, since I'm not working, I can shuffle it. Coffee with a friend. Some errands. Some sewing. And the sun is finally (or briefly) shining for this first day of summer so I want to be sure and get outside to enjoy it for a bit.

Tonight is knitting. If I'm going, I need to get out my project and figure out where I'm at so I can be somewhat productive. Attending regularly isn't working out well with work. By the time I get home, it's almost six o'clock and we have to be at the mall before 6:30 when the doors are locked. That's not enough time to un-wind and eat and get there and since I work most Tuesdays, I haven't gone in forever. I'll have to re-introduce myself... again... LOL!

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - sunshine

Monday 20 June 2011

Pink T-Shirt Plaid Skirt

This pink t-shirt has the distinction of feeling both too tight and too big. On one hand, the fabric clings to every lump and bump and on the other, it looks somewhat baggy. I'm not sure how that works but...




... here is the pink t-shirt from last week with the plaid skirt from a few years ago. Another skirt from the skirt collection. The shades of pink go fabulously together and with my favourite shoes and the love it or not necklace. YES YES! The waist of the t-shirt is blousoned in an effort to make it look more flattering. I'm not sure it worked BUT... I love the color.




Several things struck my mind when I saw this back image. The first was that there is too much ease in the back sleeve cap just as I'd noted earlier. That's easily fixed by redrafting the sleeve to remove it while maintaining the amount of ease in the front which is - finally - perfect. That alteration will also correct the drag lines where they're not hanging straight.

Second, those wrinkles at the back waist are not something for me to get all uptight about. They're caused by the attempt to blouson and/or stretching of the center back seam. That said, there might be too much width through that section that looks like two waists. Either way, breathe in, breathe out, let it go. Once through the washing machine and things will change drastically - usually for the better.

Third, seeing this picture, I started to wonder about the distribution of my waist and of my hips separately. Up until now, I've sewn a larger pattern size for the back and a smaller one for the front and I always end up taking the waist in. Seeing this image made me question if my waist might be evenly distributed with half to the front and half to the back while my hips might be wider across the back. If so, darting would become even more important in the back and allow for better fit. Hmm... something to measure and experiment with.




In the side view, I love the shoes. They're very fun - 3 1/2" heels. And I like the way the skirt fits. I like the line of my back although I'd vote for better undergarments next time. I don't like the bust puckers. They might be enough to start me experimenting with another t-shirt pattern. AND... I don't love how thick my waist looks at the front.

On another blog - sorry I can't remember which one - I recently read that after taking MMJ photos, the blogger has decided to lose a bit of weight and tone up. I think I should but most likely I won't. I never seem to get around to regular exercise - however - hopefully - with my recent food shifts, the lack of a big bag of potato chips every day will translate to a more flattering image. I know I've lost a few pounds already.

Aren't digital cameras the most amazing thing? It's so valuable to be able to take lots of pictures from every angle and analyze them from an emotional distance. Who'd have thought that a good camera and a tripod would be essential fitting tools.

Yesterday's sermon was thought provoking. It was on the brevity of life and the importance of not putting things off forever because there's only so much time. The pastor also talked about planning your own funeral not only to take the stress off of your loved ones but to be sure that what's important to you gets done and said by the people you want it done and said by in the location you'd like it done and said in. It's your last opportunity to have your say, to share your story. We all have one. Apparently, the average Canadian lives to 81.2 years. Our pastor noted that all things being equal, he was 70% done. That makes me 60% done. Something to think about.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - a lazy weekend

Friday 17 June 2011

Same Shoes Same Shirt

Two down, three to go. I finished the teal t-shirt before work yesterday. I made a change to the sleeve cap before cutting these out and it's not working as wonderfully as I'd like. The front is better with less ease only the back now has too much. That would be one of the reasons I don't - normally - cut out more than one garment at a time. Oh well. At least it's behind me.




This fabric is more stable than the pink and that's the only thing I know about the fibre mix except that this one shows wrinkles quite a bit. Strange on a knit.




This is a really close-up photo of the twin needle hem that shows the not visible in real life roll between the two lines of stitching. The hem is reinforced with fusi-knit. I cut 1 and 1/8" strips with the stretch going around the body, fuse them to the hem, serge the edge, press up the hem, take down the hem, pin and sew the side seams, and then stitch the hems in place. This allows me to do most of the work while the garment is flat which is way easier.

I haven't managed to do a picture taking session of the skirts yet but in dibs and drabs I'm getting them all. These are the long straight skirts that I referred to the other day. This first one in particular...




... gets a lot of looks. It was made as part of a outfit I entered in a wearable art show. The skirt is two layers stitched together with orange thread in a swirling pattern. The bottom layer forms the lining. It's hot pink with white polka dots and is just visible through the back slit. The skirt was drafted with Pattern Master Boutique software. It has no front darts, two back darts, and side seams which would normally not suit my figure. What makes it flattering on me is the length and the tapered hem. In comparison...





... this skirt is slightly shorter with a slightly wider hem. It's Simplicity 9825 with a front yoke, two back darts, and the side seams. In a darker color, it should be more slimming and yet it's not. The fabric is cotton about the weight of light-weight twill. LOL - both would look better with heels only I was getting dressed for work and heels are not an option with all the walking we do and the cement floors. With the same shoes, same shirt, it's an interesting comparison.




The weather here has been the weirdest. The heater has actually been cutting in the last few days. It's that cold. Normally, in June, we'd be turning on the air conditioning and complaining about the heat. There was enough sunshine for this brave first flower to make an appearance. It's in the section of the back garden where I split and moved plants to. They're still in settling in.

It's grey and raining out and not the best day for a drive however... I'm going just over an hour to a bakery in Vernon that specializes in allergy free foods. When I was first diagnosed years ago, and had only two allergies, I had a turkey cranberry sandwich made with no gluten and no dairy and it was fabulous. It was also the last sandwich I've had so I'm looking forward to another.

The bakery has since moved into the owner's home. She will have two loaves of buckwheat bread made without gluten, dairy, or eggs warm and ready for me at 10:30 when I arrive. How fun. I'm also buying a copy of her cookbook for the foods sold in the restaurant and am quite hopeful of getting some good recipes. It'll be worth the drive plus I then can visit with my friend Lorraine. We're having fresh bread for lunch.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - that other people are willing to do the research and share their findings.

Thursday 16 June 2011

Most Sewn Most Worn

Friday, when I cut out the five t-shirts, I somewhat arrogantly thought that I might get them done over the weekend only that was before I got side tracked by the allergy results. Even so, I thought I'd sew one a day this week. Yes... well... I didn't sew Monday or Tuesday, or write, or do anything but sit like a lump in my curl up chair self medicating with romances. VBG - I'd have preferred chocolate or chips but those are a no-no now. Yesterday, my friend Sharon came over to sew. With her here, I thought I'd get at least two t-shirts finished. Just one... and a bit.




This pink fabric is a rayon Lycra plus who knows what blend. It's soft with tremendous drape which means that it hugs every lump and bump on my body. To wear it, I'll need a new t-shirt bra and a smooth, non waist defining garment - not jeans. I love the color. I'm not sure otherwise.




The neckline was stitched with a twin needle placing the left needle in the ditch and the right needle on the neck binding. On the back, the excess fabric is trimmed up to the line of stitching. It makes for a nice finish if you don't have a coverstitch machine... like me... who is not sure she even wants one. I used a twin needle for the hems as well. They look good.




Originally, I'd planned to sew the t-shirts in tandem and finish up at roughly the same time however, as I thought through the best time to change thread colors, it seemed much easier to just sew them one at a time. All have colored thread for the seams and top stitching and grey thread for any serging such as to neaten the fused hems. The hemline of the pink t-shirt pulled in and I had to let the side seams out slightly. I'm not sure if it was the fabric or the fusi-knit although I've used the interfacing so often without that problem that it was most likely the fabric. The teal fabric appears more stable. Hopefully, it will skim not cling.

In her post Tuesday, Kristin asked what homemade items do you wear most and why? I sew a lot of different kinds of garments but my t-shirts get the most wear. I know they're easy enough (for most people) to buy inexpensively. My sewn ones fit better and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. My only "complaint" is finding the quality of fabric that's going to last. It's a gamble just as it is with purchased t-shirts only there's more time and energy involved in sewing your own. Even so, t-shirts are my most sewn/most worn garment.




I'm working on such practical projects right now. It's rather boring especially as up next are some flannel pyjama pants for my son. Sigh. Meanwhile, tickling in the back of my brain is my dress for next year when my friend Caroline and I are planning to go to San Francisco to celebrate our 50th birthdays. It's a long way off but okay to start dreaming. We're basing our ideas on Mary Adams' The Party Dress Book. These two images are my favourite. The top one is bias strips sewn to an underskirt and the bottom one is silk scraps layered and stitched. Both are textured and scrumptious. While t-shirts may be my most worn handmade garment, things like these skirts are the most fun to sew.




This morning I'm off. This afternoon, I work from one to closing tonight. That gives me the morning to putter and perhaps finish the teal t-shirt. We'll see.

A final note on food before I drop that topic - although anothers situation could perhaps be deemed more difficult, this is my situation and it has shifted and whenever someones situation shifts that shift brings with it loss and change which always means cycling through the grieving process. Each person's experience of that process will differ.

For me, the most difficult part is not the food - even though that is very difficult - it's the loss of control, personal freedom, and choice. Activities that I really enjoy like travelling and trying new foods and restaurants, staying in bed & breakfasts, and meeting new people (like other bloggers) over coffee or a meal have become extremely difficult, virtually impossible. I particularly love to meet at bakeries for bitter coffee with gooey chocolate cake. Not anymore. For me, that's a huge personal loss.

Simply travelling has become difficult. Where and what will I eat along the way are questions that begin to take up way too much time and energy. Yes, I can pack my own food but that's not what I want to do, that's what I'm forced to do and sometimes, it's not even what I can do. Think about an international flight. Airlines (and borders) do not allow you to bring along your own meat, fruit, and liquids. I have no idea how I will eat in San Francisco. I just want to go enough to attempt to make it work. Allergies create very real limitations and risks that must constantly be considered.

My personal preference is to approach life from the positive and yet, when I pick up a food item, my focus is on what I can not eat in the list of food ingredients. That's negative. Unless you are eating a one ingredient food - say blueberries - you have to read every label. I'm not fond of fruit in general but I really hate blueberries. With allergies you're "not allowed" to have foods that you dislike, only ones that you're not allergic to. How difficult this is to deal with and how it feels is hard to describe unless you've experienced it and even then the experience would be different for each person. AND...

... that's enough of that subject. It's not my favourite - LOL.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - one t-shirt finished four to go