Cross Over Project - Update One

You'll probably get sick of hearing me say this only I believe it's an important criteria for this year - that I am sewing garments I will wear and are truly me and that I am also sewing garments I won't wear but will be a lot of fun to sew. Underlying that decision is one to lean into the fun and the creativity of this art form and of dressing myself as myself. That said, I am hopeful it will prove to be a win-win goal and that most garments will fit into both categories and be fun and wearable. 

In an earlier posting, I talked about the cross over project chosen for this year - McCall's 8001 - a blouse. I chose it because I would like to wear blouses more but need to figure out which styles and fabrics work best on me and because it required a soft drapey fabric that I think may be a key ingredient in what works but isn't my first choice of fabrics. The dropped shoulder of this pattern is less flattering on my bottom heavy figure as is the lack of a defined waist - since I have one. I'll be evaluating what I think of that. The elements that will be fun to sew are the hem bands, the yoke, and the collar/collar stand. 

Since I don't wear a lot of blouses, I don't have a lot of blouse fabrics in stash especially ones that will drape. At our local store, I chose the rayon floral print at left because it was the best of the options available. Normally, I wouldn't choose a fabric with so much brown in it but this is small town living! I'm grateful to have a fabric store. Since there wasn't enough yardage left on the bolt for the entire project, I combined it with the stripe and the dots from my stash. The three "play" together nicely. 

To start, I cut out the two fronts, the upper yoke, the back, and the top side of each hem band and then worked step-by-step making decisions about what fabric to use where as I went along.  I was concerned that the hem band would create a strong horizontal line that would visually widened my hips. By choosing the floral print for all of the back sections, the look is more blended and less choppy when sewn together. Adding the striped flange draws the eye up to my shoulders which are narrow and visually widens them which is MUCH better than widening my hips. It also shows off the style lines on the yoke adding a moment that is quite fun. And fun to sew. 

Because rayon is so amazing at stretching, I interfaced the inside yoke to be the stabilizing point of the garment that I could correct back to. For this piece, I used the striped fabric which you can also see used as the inside sleeve band. 

The pattern does not have two separate pieces for the band. It intends for you to use the same fabric folded so I drafted separate pieces cutting the inside band bigger than the outside one so I could wrap the fabric around the edge creating the look of binding. When wearing the garment, the inside band will be visible. 

You could see in the earlier image that I did the same thing with the bottom hem band using the polka-dot fabric. Dark around my hips is better for my body type than light whereas keeping all of the light details near the top of the garment will draw the eye up. 

I have been studying fashion for a really long time and still find it fascinating especially the juxtaposition between what "they" say suits my body type and what I know suits my fashion personality. I find it valuable to use the "rules" in situations that work for me like this blouse and to completely ignore them in others. For instance, I am far more likely to wear a solid top with a printed bottom than the other way around because I'm a huge fan of statement necklaces and they - positioned against a solid and darker background - will draw the eye up. I think clothes should be fun but ultimately I want to be seen and not overpowered. This solid on top, print on the bottom, formula has basically become my uniform. 

How do you feel about fashion rules? What is your uniform?

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - learning to mix prints successfully