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Thursday 13 September 2012

Paper Mache & Sewing

When you work with paper mache, you have more success using smaller pieces of paper. The smaller the pieces, the easier they are to smooth over a curved surface - typically a balloon. In attempting to fit my figure, it occurred to me that paper mache over a balloon has similarities to fitting clothing over a curvy figure. The more seams, the smaller the pieces, the higher the success rate.




The narrow shoulder adjustment is definitely a step in the right direction. As you can see, the line of the armhole seam is "normal" and far more attractive. The sleeve is twisted. I'm working on that.




Looking at the back, it's possible I'll be doing more work there in the future. Maybe. I'm taking it one step at a time so as not to overwhelm myself and because everything affects everything. Once the front is where I want it to be, I'll be able to assess if the back does or does not need work. This muslin was drafted with the regular depth of armhole. I was hopeful that would work but it was a long shot considering that I've been petite-ing and buying petite clothing for years. It didn't. Work that is. There was a lot of bulk and wrinkling under the arm - much worse than the picture seems to show.




The fit is better once the shoulder seam is pinned in an inch. It's significant enough to conclude that I need both petite sizing and a narrow chest adjustment. What's interesting is that if you draw a line 1" down from the size fourteen shoulder, you'll be drawing on the size eight. The armhole width I traced for this muslin front and back was also the size eight. I've been sewing a fourteen up until now and I chose the size eight because it most closely matched my T & T width which means it could just be this pattern so I'm not going to jump to conclusions but it did lead me to wonder what is the best way to make the least number of alterations with the highest success rate? Questions like that are dangerous. They send me off in the direction of endless experimenting except... I like following up  ideas so much so that I got up early today to make sure I'd finish the next muslin before heading out to do errands. 




This discovery really made me think. The side seam closest to the top of the picture is the size fourteen and the lower one is the difference in the line when I slide the pattern to take out 1" in armhole depth. As much as possible, I used a slide and pivot method to trace the lines of the pattern and avoid drafting errors. These results were a huge eye opener. In the past, I would have folded out an inch and then blended the lines. I can see now that that method distorted seam lines.

I'm not going to bore or confuse you with all the steps I've been working through while experimenting. I sewed several muslins yesterday - just quick and dirty - to try different starting sizes and the corresponding adjustments. The goal is to get to a decision I can use consistently. This morning, I'm sewing an eight with changes. If it works out, this choice has the least amount of adjustments to the pattern. Hopefully, it's the one, something I'd love to have happen before the weekend. On Saturday, I'm going to my daughter and SIL's in Calgary for a week to paint their apartment. Success before I leave would let me ponder the possibilities while I'm gone.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - While I was working yesterday, I kept thinking oh, I need to share that with the blog or won't the blog be excited to hear about this. All of you who are collectively the blog have become an important part of my life. It's wonderful to have this outlet for sharing discoveries and talking sewing. Thanks for being a part of my story.

11 comments:

  1. I just have to thank you so much for being so generous with your time in posting your armhole alteration process. So appreciated.

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  2. It sounds a little like what Elizabeth at SEWN has been doing: tracing patterns a much smaller size than she previously did and then making a large FBA. What do you mean by slide and pivot?

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  3. Thank-you for keeping us in the loop on your fitting issues. Sounds like mine are very similar and like you, would like a set of steps to apply that didn't cause additional fit issues.

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  4. First let me say, woman you are like a hound dog after a rabbit! Your focus and diligence for this fit amazes me. That said, I deal with the same issues and I enjoy watching your process. About two years ago I did all this small shoulder, one shoulder 1 1/2 inches lower than the other, narrow upper chest, fba business and it worked out well. Then gravity and age sort of altered that fit and I am at it again, but with no great imperative. Want to hear my "cheater" method? I go to a high end store, try on the best of the best or at least the best of the mid-price, (usually certain designers cut and grade in my range) pin out the fit on a chosen piece, then buy it. I take it home, take it apart, make a pattern and BINGO, no more muslin's for a darn T shirt. I just don't have the time or the patience. That said, hope you catch that rabbit! By the way, the salesladies know and understand.

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  5. I've been noticing some wonkiness (hey! new word!) when I fold out, or cut and spread, for length adjustments too. I'll have to try pivot and slide - I had thought it was just kind of 'quick and dirty', but it looks like it actually gives better results too!

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  6. Oh, thank you for including me in your cadre of ethernet friends! I've wondered for some time how big you actually are: you write about using a size 1 for drafting, but in your photos you seem much more dainty. I'd have pegged you at an 9-10, myself, but needing an FBA. I start with a 12 for the shoulder, and futz about until I can get enough room for my middle, which varies from a 14-22 depending on the time of day, or whether I can stand to have fabric touching my skin in a heat wave. Viewing your postings has helped me visualize how to adjust pattern/fabric to my particular fitting puzzles.

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  7. The blog is rather excited.
    The fabric you are using for the muslin is pretty good for that purpose. Black isn't good for photographs but having the lacy print actually helps for seeing the straight of grain. Too bad it doesn't wear well for final garments, it's pretty.

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  8. Hello there! Have you tried shoulder pads and use the pattern's shoulder seam as is?

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  9. Myrna
    I'm looking for the "least number of alterations" too. I don't feel that I'm greatly misshapen or really terribly unproportioned. I think I'm just a little different from the industry standards.It annoys me that I can't make simple changes to achieve fit.

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  10. It is exciting to see what you are figuring out. What it's done for me personally is to show me that I'm probably not fitting myself correctly. A local fabric store is offering a class on make your own sloper. I'm tempted, but I'm also learning from you, so maybe I won't need it.
    Thank you!
    Carrie

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  11. Dear Anonymous,
    By all means continue to follow Myrna as I will, but you will learn so much in an actual class. You could ask for the supply list for class and especially what they are going to use for a pattern. Threads magazine has a search feature. Try "sloper" to get aquainted with the terms used. The first article to come up has ilIustrations. I took a class to make a vest. The instructor helped us fit our basic fitting shell bodice (no sleeves), and also discussed clothing construction techniques such as buttonholes and pockets. It wasn't too expensive at the time and although the course content was a little over my head, I'm ready to tackle it again. Basically you are going from tissue to fitting, then from muslin to fitting, then cutting apart the muslin (this is where I froze up and still have the uncut muslin) and tracing the seamlines from the muslin onto cardboard to make a hard copy pattern (the sloper) that you can trace around and add your own seamlines. Kind of like a cookie cutter. At least that is how I'm understanding it right now. There are variations on the theme with the making of the sloper process and that is what you learn by the hands-on process with various teachers and dressmakers.

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