I need to read the details to make sure I'm getting this information correct but - if I'm remembering right - in her book Power Sewing Step By Step, Sandra Betzina recommends completely fusing fabrics like silk dupioni to give them more body. She uses this fabric a lot for pants. It was at her recommendation that I started using Fusi-Knit interfacing and it's wonderful. That bit of stretch works well with all kinds of fabric and not just knits.
What fun to make this top - the out of print Vogue 2893. It's VERY fitted which gives me a chance to learn more about my lumps and bumps, particularly the high hips. The pattern was the correct size through the hips and two sizes too big through the bust so I started by making a muslin.
Muslins are for drawing all over. I use felt pens and make notes everywhere. The two lines running across the garment top to bottom (left to right on the screen) are the center back and the stitching line and the two running across from side to side are the waist and the lengthen shorten line. My goal when making alterations is to keep these lines at a 90 degrees to or parallel to the floor so I don't throw off the balance of the garment.
In just a short time my dress form has become an invaluable tool. I can't imagine how I sewed without it before. The seam above is the side seam. It fit from hip to waist and was way too big at the underarm. That wedge deepens the seam 1 1/8" at the top. As you can imagine, that created some interesting issues for the two part sleeve that aren't resolved yet. I'm determining all of the main body seams first.
As is typical, I took a 1" tuck front and back to petite the pattern. It gives me a giggle to refer to myself as petite. It's all about the way I'm proportioned as opposed to how teeny tiny I am especially as I'm 5'4" and right on the edge of petite but... I'll take it. It's fun.
After lifting the bust curve into position, the seams were narrowed to conform to my (actually Millicent's) measurements. First I pinned, then I marked with a felt pen, then I drew a new curve with the Dressmaker's Ruler, and then I stitched on the drawn line. This way of working lets me copy the changes easily to the pattern for further muslins and the actual garment.
Above is the front with all of the adjustments and below is the back. The rhinestone zipper is pinned in place. It's gorgeous... and stiff... which makes it hard to pin out the adjustments for my high hips. Millicent doesn't have them. Dress forms are wonderful but they are not an identical replication of your body - at least not mine. Some fitting had to be done on me.
For the second muslin, I sewed the center back seam closed and used a zipper at center front that allowed me to get in and out more easily and to see any back alterations necessary. Right now, I'm backing off a few seams to add more ease. It's skin tight. Once that's done, I can see if the adjustments worked and if so, I'll alter the pattern again and sew a third muslin with the sleeves. A muslin only takes about an hour. It's quick and dirty sewing that is so worth it especially with a garment of this nature. It works out the kinks before you cut up the "good stuff".
When I went to bed last night, I kept thinking about the green blouse I made a few weeks ago. It had similar seams through the bust. The curves drawn on it could be used to make smooth curves on this pattern but... the biggest thing... it could be used to draft the lower armhole correctly. Right now, the armhole on this garment is REALLY tiny after taking out 2 1/4". The lower curve needs to be widened and shaped much better. IMHO, a two part sleeve may be more shaped and fitted however, shaped and fitted, especially over the bicep, is not something I really need (or want) right now. I'll switch in a traditional sleeve and alter the cap to hold the elastic.
This is a very fun project. It's both challenging and creative. I picked apart the dupioni silk dress yesterday and it looks like there will be enough fabric to cut the top out. I hope so. There wasn't a matching black at Fabricland when I dropped in there yesterday to see.
First, cleaning house. I did the lower level the other day and this morning I want to clean bathrooms, dust, and vacuum upstairs and shred a bag of paper that's been sitting around for what seems like forever. After that, I can sew. Tonight, is Kyle's basketball game. Sewing time will be short. The top probably won't be finished for Sunday. If not, I'll wear something else with the skirt then and have it ready for the party the next weekend.
More tomorrow - Myrna
Grateful - it's very cold out. I'm thankful for a warm home and the ability to just be within it and not worry about basic needs.
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Personal Growth - The pressure triggered something totally unexpected: an outpouring of pure and generous gifts. ------- You do so well in so many things - you trust God, you're articulate, you're insightful, you're passionate, you love us - now do your best in this, too. ------ So here's what I think: The best thing you can do right now is to finish what you started last year and not let those good intentions grow stale. Your heart's been in the right place all along. You've got what it takes to finish up, so go to it. Once the commitment is clear, you do what you can, not what you can't. The heart regulates the hands. This isn't so others can take it easy while you sweat it out. No, you're shoulder to shoulder with them all the way, your surplus matching their deficit, their surplus matching your deficit. In the end, you come out even. - 2 Corinthians 8
These three sets of verses stood out for me although I'm not sure what the message is in them. I've always been a generous person except when I get my back up over people demanding things from me rather than allowing me to give them, especially when that demand involves my time or my art or skills and callings that aren't mine. I very much believe that we each have our own purpose and passion to live out. That every task is not our task and that finding and doing MY task is what's important. Far too often, we are "shoulded" into doing things by others rather than "woulded" into doing them by our passion and purpose. I resist shoulding quite strongly and sometimes not all that politely.
Now do your best in this - is this referring to being more generous or - even though these words come first - in my life does now do your best in this refer to the next verses about finishing what was begun last year. Perhaps both. Those words would not go away. They sat on my mind as I read the entire passage even though I'm not sure what they might refer to. Perhaps, it's something more than the work I was doing last year, creating textile pieces, and refers to a decision, attitude, or goal. Hmm... something to think about today.
Personal Growth - The pressure triggered something totally unexpected: an outpouring of pure and generous gifts. ------- You do so well in so many things - you trust God, you're articulate, you're insightful, you're passionate, you love us - now do your best in this, too. ------ So here's what I think: The best thing you can do right now is to finish what you started last year and not let those good intentions grow stale. Your heart's been in the right place all along. You've got what it takes to finish up, so go to it. Once the commitment is clear, you do what you can, not what you can't. The heart regulates the hands. This isn't so others can take it easy while you sweat it out. No, you're shoulder to shoulder with them all the way, your surplus matching their deficit, their surplus matching your deficit. In the end, you come out even. - 2 Corinthians 8
These three sets of verses stood out for me although I'm not sure what the message is in them. I've always been a generous person except when I get my back up over people demanding things from me rather than allowing me to give them, especially when that demand involves my time or my art or skills and callings that aren't mine. I very much believe that we each have our own purpose and passion to live out. That every task is not our task and that finding and doing MY task is what's important. Far too often, we are "shoulded" into doing things by others rather than "woulded" into doing them by our passion and purpose. I resist shoulding quite strongly and sometimes not all that politely.
Now do your best in this - is this referring to being more generous or - even though these words come first - in my life does now do your best in this refer to the next verses about finishing what was begun last year. Perhaps both. Those words would not go away. They sat on my mind as I read the entire passage even though I'm not sure what they might refer to. Perhaps, it's something more than the work I was doing last year, creating textile pieces, and refers to a decision, attitude, or goal. Hmm... something to think about today.
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