I can never quite remember what T & T stands for - tested and true? - but I know it means a pattern that sews up wonderfully time and time again. For me, a T & T pattern is one that I can use as a base to create other designs with, confident that its basic structure works. Since I've only just started back into fashion sewing after a lengthy break, there's just one T & T in my pattern stash - New Look 6735 - and I've only tested the t-shirt. Nothing else.
There are two fabulous fitting elements to this t-shirt. One is that the front side seam is slightly longer than the back side seam. They are eased together at bust level allowing for more room and cup size through the bust without the need for a dart. It works great for my C cup. For a larger cup size, you might still need a FBA. If you're using this pattern, remember to pay attention to the stretch of the fabric. When I made the blue version below, there was not nearly enough and it has a snug feeling. On it, I widened the neckline and added pleats.
I have high back hips. My clothing tends to crawl up and fold at my back waist because there's not enough width across the back right where it's needed. I've changed that on my pattern. The rough drawing below simulates the front and back side seams. On the back pattern piece (the left line), the narrowest (waist) position has been moved up 1 1/2" above the waist line. Immediately below, the side seam begins to flare out so that when it reaches the position of my high hips there is now sufficient width across the back of the pattern to prevent bunching up.
On the front pattern piece, the position of the waist remains the same. Since it is much lower than the waist position on the back, when the side seams are joined together, two points of tension are created that force the fabric to bend forming a cup like shape to the back. The higher waist position of the back pushes the fabric forward to the front and the lower waist position of the front pushes it back and outward.
I used to make these changes by slashing the pattern and doing a sway back or high hip adjustment and then I asked myself what really changes? Not much - the position of the waist. Now, I trace around the back pattern piece moving from 1 1/2" above the waist on the center back to the neckline, shoulders, armhole, and down the side seam to a position 1 1/2" above the waist. Next, I trace the hem line and slightly up the back and side seams of the bottom half. Then, I slide the pattern upward until the bend of the waist is now 1 1/2" above the natural waist and connect the lower lines.
So far, this seems to be working. Next, I'm going to experiment with removing the center back seam which is the second fitting element built into the pattern. It's great for its fitting attributes but t-shirts don't normally have a seam running down the back so I want to see if I can good fit without it. We'll see. It will mean moving some of the curve of the center back seam to the side seam at the hip level.
I first tried this pattern several years ago when I was hoping to get back into fashion sewing but didn't really have the time. I'd made some progress with it and then nothing - it sat on the back burner until a few months ago. The first version I made recently was with this fuchsia rayon knit. It a snappy knit that returns to shape very quickly. The pattern fit great right out of the envelope. I've only made minor changes. The reviews on PatternReview.com are similar.
With the second version, I made a small change to the neckline creating a V-shape and extended the center back 1 1/2" curving the hemline to the side seams. This again accommodates high hips giving that extra length that's needed for the pull-up.
I also added an inch to the overall length and widened the back and narrowed the front along the side seams to prevent the fabric from being eaten up into the underarm. It's amazing what a difference a small change like this makes to the fit. This blue/grey/black version is my favourite so far.
In between. I made two flocked black versions one of which I loved the top of and one of which I loved the bottom of so I cut them across the middle and rejoined them. They're black so it's pretty difficult to get a decent picture. You get the idea.
Having sewn the t-shirt five or six times, it was perfect as a base for the ModCloth knock off. AND... having made that many versions... what I have found really intriguing is the fabric factor. The pink and blue/grey/black versions are made from the same fabric and fit very comfortably. The flocked knit version skims my body rather than clings to it. The blue one is thick and feels tight. The ModCloth knock off, made from jersey, clings. The pattern pieces are identical. It's the differences in fabric creating the various looks and feels. Experiments like this - where several factors remain the same - teach me so much about fabric and design. It's great.
Last Friday, my hair reached that too long point. Luckily, I'd already booked an appointment to have it cut today or I'd have the scissors out and be whacking away. My new - and she cut an amazing haircut - hairstylist is a friend. She lives about 35 minutes from me out in the country so I'm taking my head and my knitting and going for a prolonged cut, knit, lunch, visit. A fun day.
Talk soon - Myrna
Grateful - yesterday my entire inbox and all the messages disappeared BUT... that was it. Nothing else crashed, I still have my address book and my husband, who is incredibly good with computers, fixed the problem last night while I was at knitting. Such a sweetie. YES YES!
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Personal Growth - So this is my prayer: that your love will flourish and that you will not only love much but well. Learn to love appropriately. You need to use your head and test your feelings so that your love is sincere and intelligent, not sentimental gush. Live a lover's life, circumspect and exemplary, a life Jesus will be proud of: bountiful in fruits from the soul, making Jesus Christ attractive to all, getting everyone involved in the glory and praise of God. - Philippians 1
I have the world's most amazing children. While occasionally they make mistakes, I am exceptionally proud of them. Occasionally, I make mistakes. Is God proud of me? I want to live life in a way that makes Him look good - a way that is kind, respectful, caring, considerate, loyal, responsible, loving, sharing, supportive, encouraging, and so on. There's a challenge - LOL.
There are two fabulous fitting elements to this t-shirt. One is that the front side seam is slightly longer than the back side seam. They are eased together at bust level allowing for more room and cup size through the bust without the need for a dart. It works great for my C cup. For a larger cup size, you might still need a FBA. If you're using this pattern, remember to pay attention to the stretch of the fabric. When I made the blue version below, there was not nearly enough and it has a snug feeling. On it, I widened the neckline and added pleats.
I have high back hips. My clothing tends to crawl up and fold at my back waist because there's not enough width across the back right where it's needed. I've changed that on my pattern. The rough drawing below simulates the front and back side seams. On the back pattern piece (the left line), the narrowest (waist) position has been moved up 1 1/2" above the waist line. Immediately below, the side seam begins to flare out so that when it reaches the position of my high hips there is now sufficient width across the back of the pattern to prevent bunching up.
On the front pattern piece, the position of the waist remains the same. Since it is much lower than the waist position on the back, when the side seams are joined together, two points of tension are created that force the fabric to bend forming a cup like shape to the back. The higher waist position of the back pushes the fabric forward to the front and the lower waist position of the front pushes it back and outward.
I used to make these changes by slashing the pattern and doing a sway back or high hip adjustment and then I asked myself what really changes? Not much - the position of the waist. Now, I trace around the back pattern piece moving from 1 1/2" above the waist on the center back to the neckline, shoulders, armhole, and down the side seam to a position 1 1/2" above the waist. Next, I trace the hem line and slightly up the back and side seams of the bottom half. Then, I slide the pattern upward until the bend of the waist is now 1 1/2" above the natural waist and connect the lower lines.
So far, this seems to be working. Next, I'm going to experiment with removing the center back seam which is the second fitting element built into the pattern. It's great for its fitting attributes but t-shirts don't normally have a seam running down the back so I want to see if I can good fit without it. We'll see. It will mean moving some of the curve of the center back seam to the side seam at the hip level.
I first tried this pattern several years ago when I was hoping to get back into fashion sewing but didn't really have the time. I'd made some progress with it and then nothing - it sat on the back burner until a few months ago. The first version I made recently was with this fuchsia rayon knit. It a snappy knit that returns to shape very quickly. The pattern fit great right out of the envelope. I've only made minor changes. The reviews on PatternReview.com are similar.
With the second version, I made a small change to the neckline creating a V-shape and extended the center back 1 1/2" curving the hemline to the side seams. This again accommodates high hips giving that extra length that's needed for the pull-up.
I also added an inch to the overall length and widened the back and narrowed the front along the side seams to prevent the fabric from being eaten up into the underarm. It's amazing what a difference a small change like this makes to the fit. This blue/grey/black version is my favourite so far.
In between. I made two flocked black versions one of which I loved the top of and one of which I loved the bottom of so I cut them across the middle and rejoined them. They're black so it's pretty difficult to get a decent picture. You get the idea.
Having sewn the t-shirt five or six times, it was perfect as a base for the ModCloth knock off. AND... having made that many versions... what I have found really intriguing is the fabric factor. The pink and blue/grey/black versions are made from the same fabric and fit very comfortably. The flocked knit version skims my body rather than clings to it. The blue one is thick and feels tight. The ModCloth knock off, made from jersey, clings. The pattern pieces are identical. It's the differences in fabric creating the various looks and feels. Experiments like this - where several factors remain the same - teach me so much about fabric and design. It's great.
Last Friday, my hair reached that too long point. Luckily, I'd already booked an appointment to have it cut today or I'd have the scissors out and be whacking away. My new - and she cut an amazing haircut - hairstylist is a friend. She lives about 35 minutes from me out in the country so I'm taking my head and my knitting and going for a prolonged cut, knit, lunch, visit. A fun day.
Talk soon - Myrna
Grateful - yesterday my entire inbox and all the messages disappeared BUT... that was it. Nothing else crashed, I still have my address book and my husband, who is incredibly good with computers, fixed the problem last night while I was at knitting. Such a sweetie. YES YES!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Personal Growth - So this is my prayer: that your love will flourish and that you will not only love much but well. Learn to love appropriately. You need to use your head and test your feelings so that your love is sincere and intelligent, not sentimental gush. Live a lover's life, circumspect and exemplary, a life Jesus will be proud of: bountiful in fruits from the soul, making Jesus Christ attractive to all, getting everyone involved in the glory and praise of God. - Philippians 1
I have the world's most amazing children. While occasionally they make mistakes, I am exceptionally proud of them. Occasionally, I make mistakes. Is God proud of me? I want to live life in a way that makes Him look good - a way that is kind, respectful, caring, considerate, loyal, responsible, loving, sharing, supportive, encouraging, and so on. There's a challenge - LOL.
"t-shirts don't normally have a seam running down the back"... Historically speaking, T-shirts started out as clothing for men, and children, who mostly have "cylindrical" shapes. Most women are a lot curvier, and need seams to get smooth fitting clothing. I wish you luck, and will be following your efforts. I finally got a smooth non-baggy fit in my T-shirts when I gave up on having a one-piece front and added princess seams; not at all traditional, but much less bulky (for me)
ReplyDeleteHi Myrna,
ReplyDeleteI just discovered your blog and am intrigued by your high-hip adjustment, as I have the same figure variation. Had been mulling raising the back waist area and widening the pattern but wasn't sure about how to join the front and back to accommodate the different pattern shapes. I think your solution is brilliant and will try it out. Thank you for sharing.