... watching Sandra and Ron's DVD the other day, I learned how to deal with bulk and I totally hammered this dress into flatdom every time I could. These are the intersecting seams at the shoulder before hammering - bulky - and after - neat and flat. I hammered those seams, the pleats, and the waist seam. The sleeve seam is next. Works like wonderful!
The back zipper is FINALLY in. It took several tries mainly because of the lycra content even though I interfaced the edge. Here it is all nicely lined up. YES YES!
In the end - to get it that way - I used basting tape, pins, a line of basting thread and my walking foot. Those chalk lines are from previous attempts. With the walking foot, I sewed using the edge as a guide.
Normally inserting a zipper is not an issue for me. I learned some amazing techniques from Pati and Marta when I went to the Palmer & Pletsch pant workshop. What I'm struggling with is getting the top of the zipper to look good. I agree with using an extra long zipper and cutting off the teeth when there is a waistband above but when there's a facing, turning it seems to create extra bulk and I end up fighting with that. What technique do you use to get a nice, neat, top to zippers on a bodice or contour waistband?
Silly debate number two happened with the lining. Go figure. My goodness do I need to give my head a shake. Obviously not quite all the adventurousness I thought had transferred from textile art actually did - LOL.
I rarely sew with any shade of brown so this piece of lining has been in stash for about fourteen years. It goes with the remnants of a gold, brushed denim that I used to make a skirt way back when. I loved that fabric and there is enough left of to make another skirt. This lining (intended for that skirt) was the perfect piece in my stash for the bodice lining and there I was debating using it. I might need it. FOURTEEN YEARS - hello - cut it up. I did and in the end, I had enough for the bodice and a skirt. OMGosh Girl!
An ongoing goal for me is to continue improving the quality of my workmanship. I'm already looking forward to sewing this dress again because the second time around I can implement all the things I learned that will make it even neater and crisper. I like the way the bodice lining is inserted. It's sewn right sides together at the neckline and then turned to the wrong side and matched and basted at the armhole BEFORE the sleeve is inserted. Then it's tacked at the bottom and along the zipper BEFORE the side seams are sewn. That keeps it neat and snug.
Tacking the bottom, I serged the edge and then whip stitched it to the waist seamline allowing it to bag slightly for more ease. One thing I want to do is start having more fun with the inside of garments. For example, next time I might use a wild print for the lining or brighter serger thread to make it more interesting. That's "so me".
Yesterday, I started reading Staging Your Comeback: A Complete Beauty Revival for Women Over 45 by Christopher Hopkins. In it, there's a clothing personality test. My dominant was the dramatic with a second of the innovative. That made me laugh because the test in Nothing to Wear by Jesse Garza and Joe Lupo - my all time favourite book on the subject - indicates I'm an Chic-Avant-Garde which is virtually the same thing. Both are predominately black with color and bold accessories.
One thing that totally cracked me up in Christopher's book was the description of dramatics and their hair. WHAT have I been stressing out over for the past year - my hair. FINALLY - in December - I got the only decent haircut of the entire 2009 year. Here's what he says on page 131...
Dramatics like to make a statement with clean, simple, eye catching looks that ooze chic. Dramatics feel best with a signature style rather than constantly evolving looks. Since you, more than others, will often spend the time necessary to make your hairstyle great, you might be able to do your hair even better than your hairdresser does.
YES, she says. And here's the part about aging dramatics...
Remind your stylist that you want a cut that is "a look". This way the stylist will know to think out of the box a bit and push the boundaries to match your theatrical panache. If you are willing to do what it takes-balancing the drama with make-up, clothing, and accessories - there's no reason for you to disappear into quiet maturity - not that you ever could.
Hallelujah and amen! The last time I was at the hairstylist, I asked her to make the angle of the back more dramatic. Too funny. No disappearing for me. I'm finally re-emerging. I did have a question though and since it appears that Christopher does a search for his name and/or the book (he showed up in a discussion about the book) maybe he'll answer it.
What about eye glasses? Since I can't have laser surgery or wear contacts, I'm stuck with glasses. Having found ZenniOptical.com, I'm amassing a collection and see them as an accessory - sometimes bold, sometimes understated so my other items can be bolder. I'd love some what shapes to wear and how to work with eye glasses tips... please.
Today - lots of coffee with friends and more sewing on the dress. The sleeves are in. What's left to do is finish the sleeve seam, sew the side seams, neaten the top of the zipper, and do the hems. My friend Wendy was over last night and kept saying I love those pleats. She thinks they make me look great. Hmm... we can so be our own worst enemy but... I am BMOBF this year so.... pleats.
Holding the dress up against me, I was worried whether it would fit. The waist is a bit higher than normal and I'm "fluffier" there. Pinned with a 1/4" seam, I could get it on. YES YES. Didn't look too great with ankle socks and bare legs but I think with pantyhose, heels, and jewelry, could be good AND next time, I'll know what to change.
Have a great day - Myrna
Grateful - the waistline fits!
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Personal Growth - I want you to get out there and walk -- better yet, run! -- on the road God called you to travel. I don't want any of you sitting around on your hands. I don't want anyone strolling off, down some path that goes nowhere. And mark that you do this with humility and discipline -- not in fits and starts, but steadily, pouring yourselves out for each other in acts of love, alert at noticing differences and quick at mending fences. You were all called to travel on the same road and in the same direction, so stay together, both outwardly and inwardly. You have one Master, one faith, one baptism, one God and Father of all, who rules over all, works through all, and is present in all. Everything you are and think and do is permeated with Oneness. But that doesn't mean you should all look and speak and act the same. Out of the generosity of Christ, each of us is given his own gift. - Ephesians 4
Dramatics like myself don't appreciate a herd mentality. We like to be different. We like to stand out. We like having our own gift, our own task to accomplish, and our own way of doing it. That said, it can be difficult to be different. You sometimes feel like you never quite fit in and that people regard you as weird or rebellious. Not that fitting in is the be all and end all but there are times in life when it's far more comfortable than standing out.
When I read verses like - I don't want any of you sitting on your hands. I don't want any of you strolling off, down some path that goes nowhere - I can fret about this vacuum that I'm in and yet, it's not that I'm off the path or sitting around doing nothing. I'm doing something while waiting for something more to appear.
As I said before, it is SO HARD to be patient and yet - perhaps patience isn't necessary. Perhaps nothing needs to appear. Perhaps THIS is it. Perhaps this space that I am in is where I'm supposed to be and what I'm currently doing is what I'm supposed to be doing. This staying at home, focusing on my family, putting their health at my highest priority, taking time for refreshing through sewing fashions, building up my reserves, dealing with what was and what will be, making new friends on SG, and chatting with you guys via blogging. Perhaps this is my "it" of the moment and I should stop thinking something needs to appear and rest in this space until things shift again. Interesting thought.
Myrna - I recently found your blog and really enjoy it. Your writing really resonates with me as I am in much the same place. Strangely enough, I was just at the library this evening and came home with Staging Your Comeback - Sue
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