A Day Of Tracing

Our complex is being re-roofed. The roofers started in the spring and have been working their way down the hill. We live at the bottom in the first row and they're finishing up right across the street and have started pulling off the old shingles twelve units down. It's almost our turn. That's good and bad. It's already noisy and they do about seven a week which means they will be at our house about the same time as my friend Barb arrives next week for a sewing retreat. Life has been like that lately. If it can be difficult or complicated, it is BUT...

... there are also successes like the development of this new T & T. Doesn't this look fabulous... she asks while patting her own back. I'm quite thrilled with the improved fit. My previous T & T t-shirts felt so much more comfortable than RTW and this new version feels WAY more comfortable than the old ones. It "feels" like I'll be changing over my whole t-shirt "portfolio" which means some of those old ones are destined to become bra and panty sets. There's no need to waste pretty fabric.

Yesterday was a day of tracing. Almost all of my previous T & T versions have been updated. The old fronts that are left to be retraced are ones with more complicated design details. Some are outdated, some I don't think I want to make again, and some need the right fabric or occasion so I'll wait until when and if to update those.

All of my copies are traced from the originals which were traced and adjusted from the New Look 6735 pattern. Always tracing the original avoids distortion. I keep the originals separate and don't pin and cut out garments with them. They are just for designing. I trace multiple copies of each part and each envelope contains only those parts so there is an envelope for backs, backs on fold, full backs, fronts on fold, full fronts, sleeves, and so on.

On each piece, I note the name of the piece and the date the pattern was developed. The date helps me to know if garments made from this pattern are still in circulation and still fitting well. If so, I can use the pattern again. If not, I can make adjustments as necessary.

Although these pieces are now my T & T t-shirt pattern, I note the pattern they were developed from, the size, and any alterations. This allows me to compare information to match to other patterns. For instance, last night I traced a wrap front from Vogue 8390 and matched it to the New Look 6735 back and sleeve. Comparing the measurements on the two patterns, the center back length was the same which meant I needed to shorten the center front length on the Vogue by the same 1/2" for it to match the New Look back.

I base all the adjustments on the distance between the back waist and the shoulder point which makes marking the waist position important. Just so I don't forget that this back is seamed, I write in the seam allowance which also tells me how much room there is to let the seam out if necessary.

The patterns are developed around a narrow shoulder width and one that is an inch wider. For example, in the front envelope there is a front with a narrow shoulder and round neck and a front with a wider shoulder and round neck, a front with a narrow shoulder and a V neck and a front with a wider shoulder and a V neck, and so on. With the fronts, I only traced one of each version since if I'm cutting two t-shirts from the same fabric, I'll vary the neckline shape. With the backs, I traced two of each version so I could cut out pieces in single layers or have two backs to cut two t-shirts from the same fabric and maximize fabric usage.

A 1" hem is standard for all my t-shirts. I mark it anyway and just in case someone else is using my pattern.

The cardigan envelope contains the front and back pieces but not the sleeves. This is because I've raised the back neckline 1/2" and added 1/4" extra ease to each seam to allow for wearing the cardigan over other t-shirts. Depending on the fabric, I may sew the seam allowance narrower and provide even more ease. The bicep on my sleeve is for a size 22 while the cap is a size 14 which means that when I'm allowing extra width, the sleeve pattern still works with less easing under the arm.

As you may have noticed the pattern is traced on one color and the information is written in a different color. This makes it easier to read. On this particular cardigan pattern, there is a third color telling me which back and which sleeve to use and how to sew the seams. EVERY piece has all the information on it which may seem like overkill but it makes it easy to see at a glance which piece is which and to chose the correct one.

This pile of fabrics is from my recent trip. The last color I want to sew with right now is black... or dark... or neutral... which leaves the purple or the turquoise and as you can see the turquoise is much brighter so that's the one I'm using. And I'm sewing a wrap top because I need tops and I'm tired of sewing basic t-shirts. It's probably a good thing I haven't counted how many I've made in the last month. A lot of muslins!

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - envelopes of updated T & T patterns and a more comfortable fit