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Wednesday 10 October 2012

The Wear Test

There's something completely different about how a garment looks and feels when you actually wear it from how it looks and feels during a quick try on standing perfectly straight in front of the mirror. Moving around makes a big difference.




On Sunday, I wore the latest version of the t-shirt I've been working on FOREVER and it didn't pass the wear test. You can imagine how annoying that was especially because the problem...




... was with the sleeve... cap... it kept wanting more room and crawling up over the curve of my shoulder where it stood straight up in a 1/2" fold. Everything else worked quite well but it started me thinking. Oh no - LOL! 




This whole t-shirt journey started when I decided to try another pattern from my current T & T New Look 6735 which has easing through the bust line. After a few twists and turns, I ended up with a pattern with a dart at the bust line. There's not much difference. Both are designed to allow more room through the bust.

The New Look pattern calls for a fabric with crosswise stretch only but to accommodate the easing, it's best to have a fabric with some lengthwise stretch as well except that... if there isn't enough stretch... it doesn't work.... which had happened to me too many times... only... you could sew a dart... which means that the New Look pattern is not that much different than the Vogue pattern that I've been working on. In fact, the New Look pattern would often be easier depending on the fabric. And then there's that dart possibility. Duh! It's a reminder that sometimes we ( I ) just need to stop looking around and work with what we ( I ) have.




Having decided that I no longer need a petite adjustment and already knowing that the New Look doesn't require a FBA, I wondered how differently it would fit with fewer adjustments and opted to sew it with only one change. I shortened CF and CB length by 1/2" leaving out the narrow back and the sway back adjustments. Then, I chose fabric I didn't mind loosing and paid attention to the pattern over the bust point but didn't try matching anything. I cut and sewed quickly and...




... it fits the best. Go figure. I'll be intrigued to see what other patterns I've been overworking thinking that I need adjustments I don't. I wore this version yesterday and it came through the wear test just fine except for pooling at the back waist - the sway back adjustment - which pinned out is 1" - exactly as I anticipated. I've been really brave and cut out two black versions. I'll sew them, wear them, and if all is fine will retrace this adjusted New Look pattern into a variety of neckline and sleeve length versions and refill my T & T options envelopes with updated versions. Unlike my computer, this update worked which is really REALLY good because I am ready for significant progress.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - When I wished him a happy birthday this morning, Howard replied with I made it. He's 54 and never thought he'd see forty and even though he's lived the last sixteen years with tremendous pain, he's VERY happy to be alive. I'm happy too.

8 comments:

  1. Ah, well, think of all the time you spent exploring the perfect fit as entertainment, and it will seem well spent! Just think of all the mischief you might have gotten up to, otherwise. Glad to know you've got at least one top that works on your body, lol. Happy Birthday to dear Howard. Enjoy each other.

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  2. I have experienced that happy when it's done but unhappy once I've worn it before. So frustrating.
    Happy birthday to Howard. How lovely that he appreciates each day, so many people don't know how good they have it.

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  3. I know that feeling when you have finished and wear it the first time and find that it's not working.
    I too have been rethinking some of my standard alterations. I have concluded that most of them are not needed or only a slight change on the stitching line will resolve the problem. I think that most of the time it is a matter of measuring first (maybe twice) the pattern and me and then proceeding with adjusting and cutting.
    BTW your latest version looks good. I enjoy reading your blog.

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  4. Happy Birthday Howard! I wish for you many more years with Myrna and a lessening of pain with each.

    M: It's hilarious (ironically so) that the best shirt is the one with no adjustments. There's no figuring this, however, until you try all the options :-)

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  5. Happy birthday to Howard! I read the first paragraph and said "Exactly".

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  6. Hey, I'm still here!! I've been a poor commenter and blog friend, but I have been reading along. I had the same experience just a few weeks ago with a jacket. I made a half dozen (at least!) alterations, and 4 muslins, with no real forward progress. Finally I tossed all the changes, added some width in the princess seam and shortened the bodice a bit and it was perfect. Funnily enough, that was a Vogue, too. And after reading this, I realized I'm doing the same thing with the top I'm working on now. Time to go back to the drawing board, and THANK YOU for the reminder.
    Happy Birthday to Howard, and congratulations!

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  7. Happy Birthday to Howard! And congratulations on the t-shirt. How great it must feel to have success after your latest frustrations.

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  8. The 'wear-test' is the perfect phrase! Looking forward to seeing future versions...

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