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Thursday 3 February 2011

Clothes That Fit Are Always More Flattering

As expected, there was no sewing last night. By the end of the shift, I could barely stand on my feet and wondered why I had parked the car so darn far across the lot. On my to do list is researching gel insoles and what they can do for me. Lots. I hope.

I did print out a new shirt sloper with princess seams using the same ease amounts as the Vogue 8667 dress I'm working on. I'll sew the sloper today and see what happens. All this sloper business might seem like a lot of work however, it's all up front work because later, with a sloper that fits, it will be easy to adjust all of the patterns below and more in no time at all.

As annoying as it is to redo the sloper, it gives me a chance to double check my numbers and tweak them just a little bit further. Since it fits so well already, the only change I'm looking at is a slight amount of length to CB and CF. If the test today fails, I'll go back to using the old chart.

Here's why I bother...

The way Lynda Maynard's fitting method works is by placing your fitted sloper pattern underneath the pattern that you are trying to adjust. Then you match up specific points and bring the pattern into line with your figure while preserving the design aspects. It very quickly and easily answers questions like is there enough ease, is the bust point in the correct position, do I need a full bust adjustment, how wide are the shoulders, is this pattern too long or too short in the body, are the neck and armhole the right shape, will my hips fit... and more. VERY quickly. VERY easily.

The questions are answered without a muslin although I chose to then sew one to check fit again because even with those questions answered, there will be some minor tweaks as always but it's so much faster and so much more successful than any other method I've ever used. I'm a huge convert and unfortunately, it's a method that's better shown than described. However... if you're a lover of great fit as I am, I can't recommend her book - Demystifying Fit - enough. I doubt you'll regret it. AND... if you have PMB... all the better.




Vogue 8665 is one of numerous dress patterns in my stash. I rarely bought or sewed a dress before buying Lynda's book, especially not a dress with a waist seam because they bunched up at my back and fell off my shoulders while clinging for dear life at the hips. Read not flattering. Actually, I never bought blouses for the same reason. The width of my shoulders is about a size 8 pattern and the width of my hips is between an 18 and a 20 pattern. That's a lot of changing in a short distance. Not something you find in RTW.

Anything I did buy was along the lines of this dress because the flared skirt helped with the fit. In terms of sewing, the princess seams are wonderful for fitting a curvy body and look fabulous on the triangle figure type when all the dips and curves match. That's important to me - that all the dips and curves match - because even though the skirt is full and flowing, the dress will be more flattering if the shoulders are narrowed and the waist and the bust points placed exactly for my figure. Clothes that fit are always more flattering.




I am willing to spend a huge amount of time fitting my sloper to make matching those points easier. V8659 also has a full skirt that makes fitting wide hips easier and the waist gathers are perfect for a full bust adjustment however, this pattern is designed to sit a the waist and if you don't know exactly where your waist is, it cannot sit there.



A really fitted dress like Butterick 5314, especially one with darts instead of princess seams is a nightmare to fit for a curvy body. I wouldn't have attempted it in the past. Now, with the information from Lynda's book and my sloper, it's completely doable and... if I want... I can change some of the design lines to be more flattering. In this case, I'd change the bodice to an armscye princess seam in the front. I perfer princes seams to darts.

I had thought to clean house today. That's not going to happen. Maybe tomorrow. Today, a slow morning and then some sewing. I'm REALLY curious to see how this blouse fits and get those numbers just right.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - surviving eight hours

8 comments:

  1. A very inspirational post as always, Myrna. Now I want to stop everything else and start sewing a dress
    I absolutely love your blog, thank you for writing it so regularly.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Re: shoe inserts...I've had good luck with the ones sold by massaginginsoles, and no, I don't work for them.:-) They're thin enough to wear in just about everything from dress shoes to sneakers, and in the opinion of my feet at least, are far superior to the drugstore inserts. Here's some info from their newsletter, including a coupon code if you're interested.

    "Just $34.95 per pair (regular priced $44.95) plus shipping. If you order 3 pairs of Insoles or $90 in merchandise, Priority Mail shipping is free.
    When ordering use Preferred Customer Code E1120.
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    ReplyDelete
  3. I really like how you emphasize the need for a sloper and a muslin for a pattern that you intend to become a tried and true pattern.

    Because this is new to me I am printing out magazine articles that pertain to slopers and muslins. I find that if an article is good it will help me learn the new techniques.

    First cup of tea and Myrna.

    Karen W. in S.W Ohio

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  4. I second Elisabeth's comment that reading your posts makes me want to get up and sew. Like you, I prefer princess seams to darts - I'm going to have to figure out how to change patterns to do that- When I'm done studying, that is.

    I hope your feet get used to working so hard - gel insoles should help.

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  5. I am totally with you on the importance of investing time in a good sloper. Unfortunately post-partum my old sloper is no good and I have no time to create a new one! :) Also wanted to say that I too enjoy the fitting part of sewing almost more than the sewing itself. I find the challenge of translating between2- and 3-D really fascinating. And— in response to your post about the SISC— I think the idea of trying to adapt your sloper/TNT patterns to incorporate some of the design features you like about those patterns is great. It was just what I was going to recommend after reading that post. Cheers and have fun sewing.

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  6. Myrna,
    I'm with you on the sloper. I've developed the skirt sloper two years ago and I'm working on the bodice and pants sloper now. I don't care how long it takes me to get a good fitting sloper because the reward in the end is so worth it.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Try KEEN shoes they are not the most attractive but I promise once you wear them to work you won't care. I work on my feet all day and now own 5 pairs of them and would not live without them. I tried all kinds of gel inserts and nothing helped until I found the keens. They last forever too. It is miserable to come home and feel like you can't move just from one shift, just try them they are miraculous.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Thank you for your comment... but I still think socks are the BEST!
    Good luck with your sloper! Once you've got it, it will make your sewing life so much easier...

    ReplyDelete