There is a lot of shaping built into this pattern. It's very nicely designed. One of the great features is a center back seam that allows for shaping over curvier derrieres like mine only...
... I'm used to the back and front being cut on fold with two shoulder and two side seams. I just followed along in my usual pattern. I typically start sewing by stabilizing the back and front neckline and the back shoulders and then I stitch one shoulder seam, add the neckband, and stitch the other seam. I did all that except that I only added half the back and didn't realize it until the band was on. I had to piece the neckband and then match up the serging lines.
Luckily, it is a busy enough print that the join didn't show. I use the serger to attach the neckband. That way it's easy to make sure that the seam allowance is cut to an even width before I fold the banding up and over and edge stitch it in place. I am REALLY looking forward to buying a coverstitch machine - at some point in the future - when I have a job and some money again. I've no idea when that will be but it's on my list.
I steamed the neckline and let it cool while I went and had lunch. The opening is at center back. I wanted to stitch that seam last to allow for any fitting issues because I'd read on PatternReview.com that some people found the back gaping. In the end, I didn't have that problem but if I had, I'd have been able to alter for it. The next time I sew this pattern, I'll put the opening at the right shoulder.
I basted the center back and side seams to try the t-shirt on before sewing any of them permanently. There was excess fabric across the front. That pinned tuck is 2".
To make that adjustment, I shifted the side seam over so that an additional 1" was taken off each side of the front piece. I've since transferred that alteration to the pattern piece and made a note about the change so I'll know what I did for next time.
Burda patterns are designed for a C cup. Most of the others including Simplicity, New Look, McCalls, Butterick, and Vogue are designed for a B cup. I was a D and now I'm a C, both of which mean making a full bust adjustment EXCEPT this pattern has easing along the side seam at bust level. See how the distance between green marks on the top pattern is shorter than the difference between the green marks on the bottom pattern?
You can see the difference here in fabric. When I ease that "extra" in, it accommodates a fuller bust size. It's a WONDERFUL feature of this pattern. It truly is designed for curves. Here it is finished from the front and...
... from the side and...
... from the back. The seam is barely visible with this print. I'm not sure how I'd like it in a solid but then again I'm really pleased with how this fits so I'd probably be okay with it.
There's only one small area to correct - these back wrinkles. If you learn to follow the wrinkles, you'll learn how to fine tune and fit your garments. Just be sure you're following them in the right direction. At first, I though these wrinkles might mean adding more width to the back but when I started pushing them around to see where they wanted to go they...
... moved upward shortening the center back length. It's about 5/8" which is the difference between my center back length and the pattern's center back length. I thought on a knit I wouldn't have to bother with that slight alteration and I probably don't need to since it barely shows in the finished back image above but because I can and it's easy, I'll make that alteration for next time as well.
This t-shirt, the McCalls skirt, and the Vogue blouse will all be part of my SWAP. There's time to test at least one more pattern before I make my Christmas outfit. Because the fabric for the skirt is changing, the fabric for the top needs to change as well. I tested this t-shirt pattern because I have an idea for a knit shirt that I could adapt from it. Should be fun.
Maybe I'll do some pants next. I haven't sewn any since I took the Palmer Pletsch workshop in Portland summer 2008 so it's probably time before I forget everything I've learned. For Christmas, I've asked for the Sandra Betzina and Ron Collins jeans DVD. I'd like two skirts, a pair of pants, and a pair of jeans to be part of the SWAP. The DVD will help make those and familiarize me with their technique before the class in April.
This morning I'm going out for breakfast with a friend. She's going to lend me her knitting machine. Last summer, I bought a lot of a white cotton/acrylic blend. I'm not sure what I was thinking because I'm so not a white sweater kind of girl. Instead, I'm going to knit it up on her machine and then over-dye it. The cotton will dye and the acrylic will not which should create a heathered look. After that, I'll unravel the yarn and reknit it by hand into a sweater. I'm not quite sure what color I'll dye it yet. We'll see.
Talk soon - Myrna
Grateful - a lot of supportive emails. THANK YOU!
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Personal Growth - Now is the time to forgive this man and help him back on his feet. If all you do is pour on the guilt you could very well drown him in it. My cousel now is to pour on the love. - 2 Corinthians 2
Hurt is easy to drag around. At some point it stops being about the other person or the event and starts eating away at me. I'm learning how important it is to forgive. It's coming somewhat easier. LOL - too much practice. This has been a really rough year relationship wise. More than one friendship has gone by the wayside for various reasons. That's an extremely painful experience. While there might be opportunity, I don't want to gossip or criticize or malign or verbally beat down on any of these people nor do I want to wallow in pain. I chose to look at how I could behave differently, to forgive, and to move on.
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