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Monday 2 November 2009

Three Batch Blocking

Saturday, I finished knitting all the pieces for the Shawl Collar Jacket. The yarn that I used was part of a retirement gift from one of my friends. It is GORGEOUS to knit with. Because it came in such big skeins, only the back needed a second ball. The collar and each of the fronts and sleeves was knit with no joins. LOVE that. It makes for a much neater project. Hopefully, the yarn is still available when I'm ready to stock up. I would like more.




This is the shawl collar. It took almost seven hours and a full (100 gram) skein of yarn to knit. You can see three points where it looks like it's gathered in. Those are where the short rows stopped and started. The collar is basically knit in wedges starting from the left side and moving to the right. That roll at the top is for the collar stand. Luckily, the yarn is part acrylic, part wool because as you can see, it desperately needs blocking.

Blocking sets the stitches. It's like a final press. It gives crispness and a professional quality to the finished garment. It's tedious to do but well worth the effort.




I use a LOT of these Clover Locking Stitch Markers. The image above is of one side of the back. What you can see is that I cast on, knit for two inches, added a marker, and then added a marker each time I decreased. While knitting, I mark all increases, decreases, and points of interest like where the underarm or the shaping for the neckline started. These marks help tremendously when I go to block the sweater.

Above, you can see that I pinned straight along one line for two inches and then started to curve in for the decreases to the waist. I pin to the Sew EZ Blocking Board. It's marked with a long line every inch in both horizontal and vertical directions and with short marks between the longer ones. The name makes me laugh. I first acquired this surface sixteen years ago for pressing while quilting. Back then it was called a Spaceboard and after that the Sew EZ Pressing Board. The company has been able to cross market their product quite successfully. It's FABULOUS for both blocking and pressing.




While blocking, I use LOTS of T-pins to hold the garment secure. What's the point of going to all this work if you don't? It took most of four packages of pins to secure the front and back above. That's all I have so I'm blocking the sweater in sections. This morning, I'll release these pieces and do the collar. It's going to take many, Many, MANY pins. If there's enough left, I can also do the sleeves however, I think this will be a three batch blocking.




The two fronts overlap considerably to create a double breasted closure. When blocking, the underneath section must be pinned securely with the pins inserted into the surface at a sharp angle so that they lay flat. Before placing the top section over, the underneath layer is wet. I use a spray bottled filled with really hot water and mist the fabric until it is wet to the touch. You can see this in the image below. Whenever I touched the wet wool, it left darker finger marks.




It's harder to pin the overlap straight and even because the markings on the blocking board are now covered up. In the image above, I'm measuring over from the start of the decreases for the neckline to mark the corner point of the top layer. In the image below, I have finished pinning it in place. The center line runs from the mid point of the back neckline is where the V of the two overlapping sections meet. That's how I know that it's pinned correctly and illustrates why having a marked surface is incredibly useful.




To make sure that the overlapping front edge would be pinned square and even, I used rulers to connect the markings on the blocking surface through the neckline and below the hem and then...




... placed a row of pins along the ruler. The top pin on the left hand side is the marker for the edge of the collar. The ones running in a row to the right are for pinning the front edge against.




Once I'm happy that everything is securely pinned in place and matched well, I remove all of the stitch markers. Here is the pile from just the front and back. They are quite expensive to purchase. At our local store, a package is around $8.00. Because they are so useful, I've collected more over time. While collecting, I used safety pins but they are not nearly as great. The markers not only help me to count and mark points from which to measure from BUT... they also help me to reverse and re-knit without a lot of confusion when necessary. I HIGHLY recommend them.




The final act is to mist the garment thoroughly with hot water and allow it to sit for several days until it is compleltey dry - especially the underlap area. I pinned this section on Saturday morning and will remove the pins today. With one sweater, I had to leave it for five days. That's when I stopped soaking the pieces in the sink and started using the spray bottle method. It also makes the garment easier to work with rather than a sopping mess.




We have an appointment this morning for H1N1 shots. Due to diabetes and and his age, Kyle is in an extra high risk group. I'm not looking forward to this not only because I dislike needles but because I'm mixed on getting the vaccine. Normally, I don't get flu shots however, this is not a normal flu. Many of the people who have died have had diabetes as an underlying condition which means I'm getting the shot for my son. I'd hate to pass something on to him. Unfortunately, Howard can't come with us because he's starting to teach a class today but luckily, his employer is providing shots for everyone who wants one so he'll get his in a few weeks when those are ready.

Our appointment is just before lunch which really breaks up the day. Afterward, I'll need to drive Kyle over to his school on the other side of town and by the time I get back, at least two hours of the day will be gone so I'm focusing on little tasks today. The collar on the black t-shirt is still NOT done. How annoying. It has however made it to the top of the list. I thought I'd get to it on the weekend but didn't expect the shawl collar to take so long to knit, pinning a sweater takes FOREVER, and...

... after that, I worked on re-doing the button band of an earlier sweater - four times. It simply would not lay the way I wanted to. After the fourth time, I rolled the yarn from the button band back into a ball and put the sweater in the drawer with the other yarns to be re-knit. I figured getting it out of sight would help me to resist the urge to pull the whole thing apart.

Resisting urges would be a good thing. Yesterday, I popped over to Fabricland JUST to look for black lace for my Christmas skirt. They had absolutely NO black lace however... they did have a beautiful purple paisley baby corduroy perfect for a skirt and some unbelievably "my perfect shade of lime" piping. As I said to Howard, next week, when I say I'm going to Fabricland, distract me.

I have no will power in the face of fabric and especially no will power in the face of pretty purple paisley. I've been a sucker for paisley as long as I've been aware of fabric. BUT... as you know... I certainly did not need more fabric and adding to my collection will not assist me in my goal of reducing it by 50%. Perhaps, I'll need a new "rule" - something like sew three pieces and you get to buy one - LOL. We'll see. I'll make a lot more progress on reducing the stash as soon as...

... I get these little tasks done and get to sewing more garments. The collar will be done today for sure and then the additions to the two textile pieces are next. With knitting clubs tomorrow and today broken up, I may not make progress as fast as I'd like but hopefully by Thursday morning it's all done. I'd say Wednesday but I need to clean house.

Yesterday, I had the opportunity to connect with two women who are hurting. The three of us are all dealing with issues around our children and it was so good to laugh and cry and hug and talk about those commonalities. Don't be afraid to ask people how they are REALLY feeling and to share (not burden with) how you truly understand what they're going through. Together we are better and the load is WAY LIGHTER.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - pretty purple paisley and an understanding husband

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