I didn't feel like cleaning yesterday morning so I sewed. The collar is finished and I'm ready to insert the sleeves. I do that in the flat and then sew the side and underarm seam in one go. Flat garment construction is a method I use as often as possible. It often means shuffling the instructions and that's okay. I like the benefit of easy access and I find it helpful for fitting.
The more you sew, the more comfortable you'll become with the steps involved in each type of garment and the more easily you'll be able to change the order to a way that works for you. I always read the instructions and then use from them what works for me and do the rest my way. That's pretty normal. When I was teaching art, I referred to that as developing your skills library so your hands can move with ease while your mind bubbles with creativity.
While sewing, I thought about learning and about how important it is not only to try new techniques and methods but to accept and be comfortable with your own of doing things. That sounds a bit muddled. Here's an example. When I first read Amanda's blog, her garments were so gorgeous inside and out that I wanted to finish all my seams as wonderfully as she does so I started using French and bound seams and I discovered that's just not my way. That's what Amanda loves to do. It's not what Myrna loves.
For the most part, I'm happy with serged seam finishes and occasionally I'll use a contrast thread just for fun but mostly it blends. HOWEVER... when I'm sewing a garment where the seams will be visible - such as an unlined jacket - I know exactly how to finish them and where to go for inspiration. Even though I mainly use a serged seam finish, I have studied and practiced and occasionally used all kinds of seam finishes. The more you know, the more tools you'll have in your tool box to choose from. That's good.
I'm not one for hand sewing. I'm happy to do almost everything by machine except when hand sewing makes for improved accuracy. Above, the collar stand is slip stitched in place to make sure that all the machine stitches are completely covered by the turned fabric AND THEN...
... I top stitch by machine. That may seem like a waste of time and there are other methods to avoid the hand stitching but that's the way I like to do it for the neatest look. It's my way. When I top stitch the collar stand, I start under the collar and move in a complete circle. This allows me to back stitch where it is least likely to be seen. Hand stitching and back stitching may seem incongruent. Oh well.
Do you have a learn list? What's on it? I think learn lists are a fabulous idea. They provide inspiration and a way to learn more about sewing while keeping it fresh, interesting, and constantly evolving. Top of my list is taking more time for details like trims and piping and zippers that add visual interest and tactile texture. Yesterday, I said that I wasn't much interested in couture techniques and later, when I thought about it, decided that wasn't strictly true. While I'm not interested in hand work and tailoring techniques, I would like to learn how to make bound buttons and welt pockets. They're details that interest me.
I've used strips of Fusi-Knit to finish the hems on knit garments for several years after learning about it in a DVD. On Tuesday, I used stay tape along the hemline to stabilize the drapery fabric I was experimenting with. Both work so well that I wondered "what if" I used a fused strip to give body to the sleeve hem and then cut 5/8" strips to stabilize and turn the shirt tail hem line? What if is an valuable question. There's nothing wrong with exploring your own ideas. You don't need to read it in a book or on a blog first. Just experiment. The worst thing that can happen is it doesn't work. The best thing that can happen is you discover a new favourite technique. Be brave. It's only fabric.
Knowing my new schedule, I did clean house last night to get it out of the way so that when I'm home from work these next few days, I can sew without thinking about cleaning or planning for cleaning or feeling guilty about not doing the cleaning. It's done. Moving on. Hopefully by Monday I have a finished blouse to show you. Have a great weekend.
Talk soon - Myrna
Grateful - breakfast
Hurray for this article! Too many of us think that our own preferences are wrong, as we slavishly follow printed recipes and instructions. Once you know the "right" way to do something, you should feel free to bend the rules -- or break them -- to achieve what is "right for you." Beautifully finished seams and lined garments are a delight, but sometimes you just need a garment in a hurry. There is rarely only one way to accomplish a task; and we should remember this, as we consider how to order our tasks in life. I so enjoy reading your posts.
ReplyDeleteOh, how I like the title of this post. I think this is a mantra I should repeat to myself thrice daily. I have crates of unsewn fabric that I'm too scared to cut into. You have given me new inspiration, Myrna, thank you!
ReplyDeleteNice post! It sounds like you have really hit your stride over the past few weeks and are really having fun with your sewing and design.
ReplyDeleteI think my biggest sewing frustration at the moment is that I don't fell my garments are well constructed. They stretch or fray or a seam gives out. I feel I have a lot more to learn about how to work with different types of fabric.
Another thing I'd like to work on is making coordinating and interchangeable garments. I always buy my fabrics in groups and I think the colors work well together but the shapes and styles don't always go as well as I'd planned. Have you read Cennetta's recent article on wardrobe building? I think there is a link off her blog. Have you thought of trying to design a wardrobe or collection rather than I single garment?
Great post Myrna! You put into words what I try to do with my sewing. I don't always follow my own advice/feelings about new or old ways of doing something. I just finished a shirt with french cuffs and sleeve vents done very differently than I had learned. I really liked the vent styling and decided to try; with the usual Burda instructions it was hard to follow but I perservered and the results were great. The instructions were not the best and I had to rely on my own sewing expertise to figure out what they meant. In other cases I have gone with what I know and have changed the instructions around to match how I like to do. After all it is only fabric and we sure can't take it with us. I make my share of waders.
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