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Friday 20 January 2012

An Overwhelming YES!

The weather is supposed to improve today. I've been warm and cozy in the studio only because there are two space heaters running in the basement otherwise, it's freezing out. It may seem like Canadians are constantly fixated on the weather and we are. We have reason to be. We actually have weather. Yesterday was -22 degrees and today it's supposed to warm up to +6. That's a HUGE change that goes from snow on the ground to water in the streets. You can see why we talk.

Brenda wrote - I wish I had your patience in making muslins but I never seem to have the time but I think I have my fit off fine for now.

You're not alone. When I was teaching Creative Wearables, the majority of my students approached sewing the muslin kicking and screaming but usually by the end of the class I'd converted them because I take the opposite approach. My time is too valuable. I can't afford NOT to muslin especially with a project as labour intensive and potentially costly as a coat. I muslin any garment I'm not sure of because an extra hour or two is worth it to me in terms of less frustration and fewer wadders.




Even in muslin, the lines of the Vogue 8626 coat are far more flattering. I really like the deep inverted pleat. The smaller pleats should - IMHO - be pressed the opposite way and stitched down but maybe not. I'll try that on the next muslin and compare which is better.




The front is stitched together along the center front line making it easier to try on without having to pin all the way down. Once again, the garment has a very close fit and not nearly enough ease for a coat. With the second muslin, I'll stitch the princess seams from 5/8" at the shoulders out to 1/4" through the bust and down and sew the side seams at 1/4" adding 4 1/2" of ease. Because the back seams are...




... armscye princess and sewing them at 1/4" would drop the back armhole, I rotated the seam line to create a shoulder princess seam instead and...




... eliminated the extra width I'd added at the hip. In the front, it was one size and in the back, three sizes only it wasn't needed because of the flare of the garment. The extra just pools at the sides. And... because the seams will now be sewn at 1/4"... there will be an extra 4 1/2" of ease at the hips which means no extra flare needed.

With the first muslin, I didn't make my usual 1" petite adjustment through the armhole just in case it wasn't needed. The bodice was too long so I'm testing that alteration on the next muslin along with the extra ease and beginning to work on the sleeves.

The pieces were cut at the longer length even though I want to hem the coat just above the knee because the pattern is drafted with 5/8" hems which are way too skimpy for a coat. By starting with the longer length, I can decide where to hem it and alter the pattern without having to add more paper.




I marked the Butterick 5685 muslin with the necessary information and made some notes to go with the pattern instructions and packaged them away together. Next time I decide to work on this pattern, I'll be further ahead and know where I'm at. I only discard a muslin if I'm not going to ever sew the garment and then I give the pattern away too.

Susan wrote - Could you please take a photo of the sleeve pattern piece that has the following alterations on it....

As soon as I knew that sleeve wasn't going to work, I threw out the piece - something I always do to make sure I don't accidentally use the wrong piece next time HOWEVER... in the posting Elbow Length or Elbow Dart from August 2010, I talk about tipping the shoulder. Hopefully that will help and if you need info on adding to the bicep, let me know.

Considering it didn't start out the greatest, this has been a far more positive week. YES! I've enjoyed being in the studio which once again highlights how important it is for me to be making things and to have goals and challenges to work toward. I did some more research yesterday into purses and have been making notes on directions and possibilities and I'm feeling quite energized about the potential. It definitely has that bubble of yes. And now... I'm off the clean house.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - ending the week on a positive note

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Personal Growth - Be cheerful no matter what; pray all the time; thank God no matter what happens. This is the way God wants you who belong to Christ Jesus to live.First Thessalonians 5: 16-18

Someone is looking at our house this afternoon... again. I am cleaning... again. It has never taken this long to sell one of our homes before. I'm impatient and remind myself to remain positive and grateful that the house at the top of our buy list is still available. This could be good.

Although the year hasn't started as planned, I have had such an overwhelming YES! in terms of feedback and encouragement around the purses that I'm 99.9% committed to going in that direction and VERY thankful for all the input. Considering we're only 3/52 into the year, that actually sounds quite good.

While it's yet still another "gift" of the great M, my five week cycle just shortened itself to two and I'm tap dancing happy because it means I've been dealing with PMS and not SAD this week, which makes the rest of winter look a whole lot more positive. LOL - the things we're happy about.

2 comments:

  1. The coat is looking fantastic. I can see it being a fitting challenge. There is a lot going on with the style, but it is turning out very flattering. Well worth the effort.

    And thank you for posting the bible verse. It was quite fitting when I read it in the kitchen with my three "not so happy" children at breakfast. We all could do for a reminder!

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  2. I have a few questions...
    First, which Bible version have you been using? It reminds me of The Message but more contemporary. That's one of my favorite Scriptures.

    Did you notice the Vogue website has your coat pattern on a model? It's easier for me to see how nice it'll look once it's done. Did you decide which neckline to do? I wish this pattern had a more typical collar, but that's just me.

    I really like your wool blend for your coat. Does Fabricland have an online option for purchases? I couldn't find it.

    Thanks! Another good post.

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