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Friday 25 May 2012

Dark Denim Rich Wrinkles

You may be rather incredulous - as I was - when digging through the stash yesterday - that the thought popped into my mind that I didn't have enough fabric. Of course, what I really meant was that I didn't have enough fabric in suitable lengths for the dress I wanted to sew. LOL - an excuse to shop as soon as there's some available space.




For the prototype, I chose linen in a dark denim color. It seemed like a great choice since it softens with wear and any slight fitting issues - like my high back hip - weren't going to be a problem. I tore off both selvages before cutting out the dress because the edge was soft and pretty and might make a good accent on some kind of creative wearable project. I kept all the linen scraps for the same reason. Linen is fabulous pieced with attention to seams and details and top stitching.

Are you aware of the sewing guides at EmmaOneSock.com? They're written by the late Shannon Gifford and are a fabulous resource for learning about different fabric types. Of linen, Shannon writes: Don’t be put off by the wrinkles in linen. For many years, linen wrinkles were a status symbol; one expert calls them “rich wrinkles”! These creases were and are an indicator of the genuine linen article.




Yesterday, I traced and altered the pattern, cut out the fabric, and basted the garment with the seam allowances out to allow for easier fitting. The front opening and the shoulder seam are pin basted to allow me to get in and out and to allow for minor adjustments to the bust point although they weren't needed. The bodice fits wonderfully.




The skirt not so much. At the hips things get too full and baggy. Most likely I could go down a size or two even. I'll measure the difference between sizes, pin it out, and try that before I cut anything off but I'd rather the fabric skimmed my hips and flowed than that there was way too much which is what's happening now. 




Thanks for the feedback on the pattern choices. Even though it was the popular choice, the wrap dress had the least built in fitting options so I decided to try it another time. Instead, I chose Vogue 8743 - without the box pleat at the front - because of the princess seams. The more seams the easier fitting is and considering time is short that seemed like a good idea. I'll finish this first version this weekend and will know if I want to make the "real" thing after that. If I do, I've picked a lace with a very slight stretch.

Another reason I chose this pattern was because of the length and flow. It's interesting what we all consider dress-up. Although a sheath dress can look lovely on a lot of people, with my figure type I've always gravitated to flowing dresses and because I have a lot of varicose veins I'm most comfortable in longer dresses if I can't wear heavier tights or dark pantyhose.

At the wedding we went to last weekend, one of the women was wearing a light, drapey dress similar to Vogue 8743 which she had also worn to her daughter's graduation last year. Both times, the dress  immediately caught my eye. It is soft and feminine with a bit of a flapper feel even though styles are vastly different. I'm moving in that direction.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - a project to work on and give focus as I learn how to move in this new studio

2 comments:

  1. I recently added that pattern to my stash, too, and like you if I make it I will omit the front pleat. And I will definitely use the actual pattern measurements to decide my size... ;-) Glad to see you sewing!

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  2. I've made this dress as a wearable muslin out of a linen blend. It's large on me tho, but that's likely because I'd thought I was a size 12. I've recently learned from a fitting pro that I'm an 8 on top down to a 12 on the lower half. (Not the 12 down to a 14 that I'd thought.) The pattern is broad across the shoulders, so I can't really wear it. This summer, I'll re-sew it.

    What I like about it: The flow-y skirt is very feminine. I left the pleat in and I really like it as it pulls the front down flat making my tummy pooch less noticeable.

    It'll be fun to see how your version comes out, Myrna.

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