Getting In And Out Is A Delicate Operation

Yesterday morning, I slept in. When I woke up, it was raining - the perfect day to stay in the studio. First thing, I wrote virtually the same entry as today only I posted it to the wrong blog. I'm also part of a lingerie blog and I didn't notice that was the one I'd clicked on when I started the writing. Rather than rewrite it, I gave up and spent the rest of the day cutting out a skirt, having coffee with a friend, sewing and reading. It was a lazy last day of the long weekend.




The weekend was mostly spent working on my mother of the grad dress, which was far more labour intensive than I'd anticipated mostly because the lace was soft and stretchy. As a test, I cut out one of the bodice pieces from lining and attempted to match it to the corresponding lace piece only the lace piece was much bigger. It stretched. Instead, I placed the pattern piece under the lining, smoothed out the lace on top, pinned the lace to the lining, basted it in place, and then re-cut the pieces.




Individually. One at a time. It took forever but the results were far more accurate and the rest of the bodice came together easily after that.




I felt that the neckline needed the stability of the interfaced facing. I also felt that at a seamed neckline edge or a folded hemline would look bulky with the lace and planned to finish the edges with bias binding. For the neckline...




... I sewed the facing wrong sides together with the bodice using a bright pink thread so that I could clearly see the line. Then, I matched edge of the bias tape to the pink line and stitched it in place using a 1/4" seam. The original seam allowance was trimmed away up to the pink thread and the...




... bias was turned, pressed, and hand stitched into place around the neckline. The fabric is Shantung. I'd hoped to use silk dupioni because it presses so well only there wasn't any available. This was the next best choice and the color match was perfect.




The bodice pieces were sewn as one with the lining. The skirt pieces are detached with the side seams sewn separately in the lace and the lining. The lining is hemmed. The lace will be bound with bias tape. The sleeves are lace only and hemmed with bias. They're three quarter length. I made a trial version of an elbow length sleeve and didn't like the way it looked with those chicken drumstick dimples at the back of my arms and I'm uncomfortable with sleeveless without some kind of cardigan to cover. Since I don't have one that matches this dress, three quarter sleeves it is.

There is an invisible zipper in the side seam. It inserted just fine only the lace is a problem. It catches easily in the zipper and at the waist made it impossible to pull the zipper any higher. In the end, I had to restitch the area from just below to just above the waist insert with the stitching slightly further from the zipper teeth. That was the only way to do the zipper up and even so, getting in and out is a delicate operation.




The dress is complete except for the hem. Right now, it's hanging out and then a friend is going to pin the lining to the lace for me. I'll then cut the lace 1/2 - 1" longer than the lining and bind it with the bias tape. It'll be a long and labour intensive hemline however, I think it'll also be the best finish. The dress fits well although I can't really see the back so I'm waiting for pictures of it on me. It's an unusual color for me and seems a bit dull at the moment but I think I'm just sick of making it and it'll be perfect for the grad in a couple weeks.

Last night, I started on the Burda skirt for my "work" project. I'm working this morning, have the afternoon off, and then there's a staff meeting tonight. I'll either work on the skirt or garden in-between depending on the weather. I have a tree and a shrub that need planting and some lilies to split and move.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - a leisure long weekend home alone with my husband and lots of time to sew